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Ronald Readan elected president |
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economic times made affluence (riches, wealth) sociably acceptable |
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wedding of Price Charles and Lady Diana Spencer |
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Lady Diana Spencer 1980's |
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she was a major influence on mainstream fashion for 16 years |
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Japanese Designers show their designs at prêt-a-porter shows in Paris |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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no line, form or recognizable silhouette |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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loose, black, irregular garments |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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inaugurated the reign of black |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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Radically revised contemporary perception of fit & proportion |
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“Conspicuous Consumption” |
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“If you’ve got it, flaunt it.” |
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“Whoever has the most toys, wins.” |
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Status Symbols
Spending money was acceptable & pleasurable |
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Interest in Fashion Designers reached a New high |
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“vulgarized” the Chanel look |
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Ate for amusement rather than substance –trend foods |
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During the era of miniskirts |
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, a couture designer seems as obsolete as `A blacksmith |
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Role of Haute Couture – made somewhat of a comeback |
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Movement toward increasing mechanization |
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Dread locks and hairstyles - Rastafarian, reggae musicians |
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Furs fell into disrespect |
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African-Americans continue to have strong influence - more Black fashion models |
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Make-up more elaborate
Accessories became more important – Total Look |
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success cults, power suit, power tie |
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double breasted jacket with front-pleated trousers |
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menswear look, big shoulders |
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expensive silk - in red or yellow |
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Power suit designers in 1980 |
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Margaret Thatcher, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani |
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Focus on body consciousness – second skin fashions |
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“Want to know what comes between me and my Calvin's? Nothing.” – Brooke Shields |
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Aerobics was the fashionable sport |
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Exercise clothing worn on the streets – jogging suits, Stirrup pants, Lycra tights in lieu of pants, tank tops, Running shoes, headbands |
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young upwardly mobile processionals "dress for success" |
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"investment dressing" display of conspicuous consumption Louis Vuitton "LV" Guccio Gucci "GG" |
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Old money wanted to distinguish Themselves from yuppies |
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- polo shirts & Button down oxfords |
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deck shoes, espadrilles, topsiders |
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hot pink & lime green combinations |
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Fair Isle Sweater - different color looks like a shaw by the shoulders |
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papagallo bad - round with wooden handles |
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personalized needle point bags handle and closure on top, hard |
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Cult Dressing 1980 Vivienne Westwood |
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Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV |
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Gave a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress |
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Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress |
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Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress Annie Lennox, Boy George |
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Gay Culture defined a cutting edge in Music & fashion |
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Media influence : Soaps - 1980 |
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“Dallas” and “Dynasty” high-powered women |
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Media Influence : Men - 1980 |
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“Miami Vice” - impeccably casual - injected new life into men’s fashion |
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Media Influence : MTV- 1980 |
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1985 – Council of Fashion Designers of America Award |
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Media Influence : MTV- 1980 |
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East and West Germany reunited War with Iraq |
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Government of Soviet Union collapses |
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Bill Clinton elected president |
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NAFTA – North American Free Trade Agreement Terrorist attack on World Trade Center |
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First retail sale of custom-fitted jeans made by computer imaging 3 million computers connected to the Internet |
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Bombing of federal building in Oklahoma City |
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10 million computers connected to Internet British Designers chosen for houses of Dior & Givenchy |
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Bill Clinton’s Scandal - Monica |
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Slinky bias dresses from the 30s |
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Print dresses from the 40s as worn in “Evita” |
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Beatnik look from the 50s |
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Mini dresses and boots from the 60s |
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Bell bottomed pants from the 70s |
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Platform shoes from the 70s |
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Wide shoulders from the 80s |
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Pouff balloon skirt look from the 80s |
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Kate Mass in John Galliano 1994 |
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clean & sophisticated looking |
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Punk & hippie style combined |
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Inspired by music, the street and youth culture |
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Take a retro-floral dress and accessorize it with Doc Marten boots, long underwear and a flannel checked shirt |
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Baby-doll Look - Baby Spice/ Brittney Spears, longer dress with white knee highs and black mary janes/ t- straps |
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Hussein Chalayan, 1999-2000 |
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Spice Girls - military look/ suit |
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Simplicity is the soul of modern elegance. “ |
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Dresser to the world’s wealthiest and glamorous |
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Fetish and homoerotic fashions |
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“Bumsters” – low-waisted trousers |
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Designer labels & licensing |
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“Living on the edge” - boots, ugly big pants |
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reinterpretation of 1930s Vionnet |
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Tumultuous (turbulent) times have an influence on Fashion |
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Fashion becomes a global phenomenon |
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Film and Music Celebrities |
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a fusion of previous styles, global and ethnic clothing, numerous music-based subcultures, especially indie pop |
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Recycled vintage style from 40s, 50s, 60s, 80s |
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Britney Spears popularized 2000 |
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low-rise jeans, Crop tops, lower back tattoos, navel piercing and the whale tail |
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Fashion becomes less grungy and more excessive |
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Wearing of thongs becoming less popular |
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Baggy jeans craze and skinny jeans are in! |
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1980 Revival – large chunky jewelry, leggings, and/or miniskirts |
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in 2003 but falls out of favor in 2005 |
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Bohemian Look made popular by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Lindsay Lohan |
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made popular by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Lindsay Lohan |
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Owning a cell phone, MP3 Players |
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Generation Y supplants Gen X |
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takes on task of doing 3-D scan of 10,000 men and women to replace old tables of 1940s |
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tries to launch a new division to attract 35 & older |
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48.8% of women wear size 12 or larger |
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Tom Ford leaves Gucci & YSL to design under own name |
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Alexander McQueen leaves Givenchy to open own salon |
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Nicolas Ghesquire ---> Balenciaga |
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Viktor & Rolf known for exaggerated recognizable forms |
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Stella McCartney becomes chief designer for Chloe |
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Michael Kors – carpool couture – “Project Runway” |
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Zac Posen (27) one of younger designers to show in New York |
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leaves Gucci & YSL to design under own name |
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leaves Givenchy to open own salon |
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Nicolas Ghesquire becomes 2000 |
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known for exaggerated recognizable forms |
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becomes chief designer for Chloe |
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– carpool couture – “Project Runway” |
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one of younger designers to show in New York |
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Worst Fashion Trends 2000 |
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1. Crocs2. Juicy Track suits “butt pants”3. Ponchos4. Ugg boots5. Livestrong bracelets6. Popped Collars7. Von Dutch (Trucker) Hats8. Low Rise Jeans |
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Worst Fashion Trends 2000 |
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9. Thigh High Boots 10. Ripped Skinny Jeans 11. Gladiator Sandals 12. Ed Hardy Shirts 13. Harem Pants 14. Iconic Nerd Glasses 15. Leggings worn as pants |
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Born in 1938 Hamburg, Germany |
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At the age on 14 left for paris, France to study informally to become a fashion designer |
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1954 won a prize for International Wool Secretariat for a coat be designed |
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was an apprentice for Pierre Balmain |
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Worked for Chloe from 1959-1978 |
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Started Fendi in 1965 working on furs; in 1969 launched the house's first RTW fur collection |
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Created Fendi's double F logo |
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1977 launched Fendi's TRW lines for both men & women |
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1978 began designing haute couture for the House of Chanel |
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1983 With the help if Gilles Du Four added a Chanel TRW garments |
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kept the cardigans and suits, but reinvented it with a more dramatic look -- Chanel RTW |
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1984 started his own clothing line |
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in 2005 sold the name of his brand to Tommy Hilfiger, but maintained full design involvement |
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Member of the Chambre Syndicale Du Pret- A- Porter |
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Is an avid photographer, and ofter shoots his own press photos |
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personal trademarks; long ponytail, powdered- white hair, and sunglasses |
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Continues to be creative director for Chanel, Fendi, and his Karl label |
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boen July 11th in Piacenza Italy |
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studied medicine at the University of Bologna for 2 years |
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left school for a military obligation 1957 |
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Worked for La Rinascente a famous department store in Italy as a window-dresser & later an assistant designer |
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did freelancing for multiple manufactures up to 10 at a time |
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partnered with Galeotti & started his name brand in 1974 |
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favors colors such as blue, black, white, shades or grey, and beige |
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revolutionized fashion with the unstructured jacket for men & women |
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fitted Richard Gere in American Gigolo, making his clothes will desired in AMerica |
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has dressed nearly everyone in Hollywood |
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Designed suits for Christian Bales (bruce wayne) as bat man along with tom cruise for mission impossible |
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worth 5 billion & growing |
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has multiple sub brands help appeal to all demographics |
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The legion of Honours for lifetime achievements |
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Guggenheim museum exhibit |
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1st to ban models with a BMI under 18 due to death from anorexia |
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Designes outfits for the 2006 italian Olympians |
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Designed suits for the soccer team Chelsea as well as England's football team |
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born in New York City 1963 - 49 years long |
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grandma taught him to knit |
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attended design school & worked at popular New York boutique- Charivari |
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won the Perry Ellis Gold Thimble Award |
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Design student of the year at Parsons |
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youngest to win The Counsil of Fashion of America's Perry Ellis Award or New Fashion Talent |
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designed first collection for Reuben Thomas, Inc. |
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joined perry ellis duffey & created grunge line & got fired |
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is an artistic director for Louis Vuitton- created LV Graffiti bag |
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known for ruffle dresses & skirts- often have and Edwardian influence - pulled from the 80s as well |
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know for mixing patterns & styles |
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Provocative advertising- "Oh, Lola" with Dakota Fanning |
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celebrity friend promote him |
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recently said he did not want other celebrities at his shows |
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Glossop Derbyshire England |
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Mother= cotton weaver father shoe maker |
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1962 marries Derek Westwood, soon after her first son & went back to teaching |
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Inspiration was drawn from England’s depressed economic, social political conditions & of course from newfound need to rebel |
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opened "let it rock" with Mclaren |
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first collection "pirates in the Spring of 1971" |
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MINI- Crini Spring/summer 1985 |
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British designer of the year |
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married multiple times 2nd time to Andreas Kronthaler |
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"Anglomania" 10" platform heel that takes down a super model |
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Wedding gown for Bradshaw |
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10" platform heel that takes down a super model |
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Woodstock festival in New York State |
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Four students killed at Kent State University |
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Midi/miniskirt controversy |
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beginning of platform shoes style |
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2 huge antiwar matches in Washington D.C. |
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Richard Nixon elected president for a second term |
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revival of 1930s & 1940s styles |
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wrap dress becomes popular |
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Nixon resigns, General Ford becomes president |
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economy in worst recession in 40 years |
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Giorgio Armani open womenswear salon |
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punk clothing begins to be seen |
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Us space shuttle makes first test flight |
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The "Annie Hall" look becomes popular, as does fashion from Saturday Night Fever |
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100, mark in support of ERA |
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the "Dress for Success" look takes off |
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1970s Stagflation Economy |
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a combination of high interest rates, high unemployment, slow growth, and decreasing productivity |
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american family life changed as traditional family structures eroded from a rising divorce rate and declining birth rate |
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mexican americans began to use this term to express their distinctive identity as separate for a more general U.S. culture |
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more women entering the business, medicine, and engineering fields in college |
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gasoline shortages and number of ecological crises |
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Clean Air Act and a Water Quality Improvement Act |
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fight for better health care and living centers better suited to the needs or the aging |
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"Nader's Raiders" - safety issues - platform shoes |
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Niel Armstron - 1 step/man on the moon |
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1970 environmental movement lead to earth art |
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a style that challenged ideas about time, size, space, and was |
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created by artist such as Robert Smithson |
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began in 1970 combining clothing & various types of fiber art: weaving, painting, embroidery, and dyeing |
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The Mary Tyler Moore shoe 1970 |
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single 30ish independent career women |
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Saturday Night Live- stay at home and watch TV night |
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sex appeal - feminist complained |
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1970 nostalgia, avoided political or cultural commentary |
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films making black males look like drug users, pimps, and gangsters |
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clothing fads that evolved into hip-hop styles of the 1980s |
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Woodstock & break up of the Beatles |
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1970 Rock & Roll Woodstock & break up of the Beatles lead to |
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nudity, drugs, and sexual freedom |
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1970 Saturday Night Fever |
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Disco dress - John Travolta -- floral knits 3 piece white suits clubs spandex ----anti disco |
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created fashion styles for the band |
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torn shirts and jackets decorated with heavy chains and safety pins - London designers popular |
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specialized in one classification of goods EX (coats or evening dresses) |
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mens increase in interest in fashion led to many designers to enter the menswear business |
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laster beam cutting of pattern pieces began in menswear, spread to women's & children's |
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Computer aided pattern making debuted in |
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subculture trends influenced fashion |
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1970 clothing was more easy to wear dresses & coordinated layering ] due to |
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effects of the Vietnam War |
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provided fashion alternative to the masculine style of Lauren |
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designed by Italian Tai and Rosita Missoni, were expensive but also considered works of art |
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complex knitwear in distinctive patterns and colors were made in limited number and have also been included in museum exhibits |
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over all winner pants for women |
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image marketing more than design, putting money into ads for the first time, placing of logos and initials on the outside of clothing |
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1970 coordinate tailored pieces |
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frequently menswear inspired, and fluid, close to the body dresses |
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pieces that worked for many occasions |
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full skirts or a hem ruffle |
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short version became standard |
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worn with shirt wide loose tie or bow low heels and neutral color |
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standard for all occasions - casual wear, work, or evening wear |
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year of sweater and dressing - casual |
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created irregular horizontal lines |
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ultra short petticoat substitute- for wear under short pants and skirts blurred into the short-lived fashion for teddy pants or tap pants |
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Teddy pants/ Tap pants 1970 |
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underpants evocative of 1930 buttoned styles with wide legs |
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jewelry designer - horseshoe shaped belt buckle |
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1970 safari suit for men & women - knit |
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inspired by african american dress- civil rights movement |
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