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chapter 15 vocab
chemical texture service
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11th Grade
02/12/2009

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Term
acid-ballanced waves
Definition
perm with a ph between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require the added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
Term
aklaline waves or cold waves
Definition
permanent waves that process at room temperature without the addition of heat; most alkaline waves have a ph between 9.0 and 9.6
Term
ammonia-free waves
Definition
perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use
Term
ammonium thioglycolate
Definition
main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Term
base cream
Definition
oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
Term
base control
Definition
the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Term
base direction
Definition
the angle at which the tool is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Term
base relaxers
Definition
relaxers that require the application of base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Term
base sections
Definition
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section
Term
basic perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which all the tools within a panel moce in the same direction and are positioned on equal size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm tool
Term
bookend wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envolope
Term
bricklay perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from eachother row by row
Term
chemical hair relaxing
Definition
process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form
Term
chemical texture services
Definition
hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Term
concave rods
Definition
perm rods that have a smaller circumfrence in the center that increases to a larger circumfrence on the ends
Term
crouignole perms
Definition
perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers
Term
curvature perm wrap
Definition
perm wrap in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers
Term
disulfide bonds
Definition
side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cystine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighboring polypeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of cystine
Term
double flat wrap
Definition
perm wrao in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped
Term
double tool (piggyback) technique
Definition
perm wrap in which two tools are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.
Term
endothermic waves
Definition
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
Term
end papers or end wraps
Definition
absorbant papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
Term
exothermic waves
Definition
perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing
Term
glyceryl monothioglycolate (gmtg)
Definition
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-ballanced waving lotions taht effectively reduces the ph
Term
half off base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees(perpendicular) to its base section and the tool is positioned half off its base section
Term
hydrogen bonds
Definition
relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting or heat, as in thermal styling and re-form as the hair dries or cools
Term
hydroxide relaxers
Definition
relaxers with a very high ph. sometimes over 13
Term
lanthionization
Definition
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; lanthionization breaks the hair's dissulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair
Term
low ph waves
Definition
perms that work at a low ph and use sulfates, sulfides, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
Term
metal hydroxide relaxers
Definition
ionic compands formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
Term
neutralization
Definition
process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer
Term
no-base relaxers
Definition
relaxers that do not require aplication of a protective base
Term
normalizing solutions
Definition
conditioners with an acidic ph that condition the hair and restore the natural ph prior to shampooing
Term
off base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45degrees below the perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned completely off its base section
Term
on base placement
Definition
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45degrees beyond the perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned on its base section
Term
peptide of end bonds
Definition
chemical bonds that join amino acids together
Term
polypeptide chains
Definition
amino acid chains joined together by peptide bonds
Term
salt bonds
Definition
relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; are easily broken by changes in ph as in permanent waving and re-form when the ph returns to normal
Term
single flat wrap
Definition
perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over top the strand being wraped
Term
soft curl permanents
Definition
combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser
Term
spiral perms
Definition
perms in which the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of teh tool; depending on the tool, the hair may be wound from the scalp toward the ends or from the ends toward the scalp
Term
spiral perm technique
Definition
perm wrap done at an angle that causes the hair to spiral along the length of the tool particularly effective on longer thicker hair
Term
straight rods
Definition
perm rods that are equal in circumfrence along the entire length or curling area
Term
thioglycolic acid
Definition
colorless liquid with a strong unleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permament waving solutions
Term
thio relaxers
Definition
relaxers taht usually have a ph above 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than is used in permanent waving
Term
thio free waves
Definition
perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent
Term
true acid waves
Definition
perms that have a ph between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkalne waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl
Term
weave technique
Definition
wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
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