Term
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Definition
Use: Belay or rappel in an emergency, e.g., loss of belay/rappel device. Use with a locking, pear-shaped carabiner.
Caution: Knot movement can loosen a screw-gate carabiner and can kink/twist rope.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Tie an anchor. Loosens easily after being loaded.
[image]
source: http://sailing.about.com |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Build an anchor. Easily adjusted so good for equalizing.
Caution: Load bearing end should be along carabiner spine for maximum strength.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Simple way to attach a loop/sling to anything.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Best and strongest way to tie two ropes together. Working ends should be secured with a Fisherman Knot.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Stopper knot.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Strong way to join two ropes.
Caution: Difficult to untie after being loaded.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Tie a climber into an anchor.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Tie two lengths of webbing together.
Caution: Should have >8" tails and can loosen under repeated loading/unloading.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Friction knot. Grips the rope when loaded. More loops = more friction. Effective only in one direction.
Caution: Knot rope must have a smaller diameter than main rope for maximum effectiveness. The closer the diameters of the two ropes the less effective the knot.
[image]
source: http://climbing.about.com |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Friction knot for ascending a fixed rope in an emergency. Grips the rope when loaded.
[image]
source: http://climbing.about.com |
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Term
| Autoblock (French Prusik) |
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Definition
Use: Friction knot. Safety backup during a rappel, tied below the rappel device. Grips under load and stops the climber from rappeling if s/he lets go of the rappel rope.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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Term
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Definition
Use: Friction knot used to ascend a fixed rope in an emergency.
[image]
source: http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/ |
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