Term
| Manufactured Fiber Definition |
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Definition
| o Fibers created by melting or dissolving polymeric materials and re-forming them as fibers |
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Term
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Definition
| o The spinning liquid for acetate fibers |
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Term
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Definition
| o The thing through which a liquid polymer melt or solution is extruded to solidify into a fiber. Number of holes in the spinneret will determine the number of filaments the yarn has |
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Definition
| o The formation of manufactured textile fibers in which the polymer is dissolved in a solvent to form a gel, which is stretched to harden the fibers. To create high strength polyethylene (olefin) fibers |
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Term
| Extrusion Spinning Definition |
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Definition
| o To prepare a polymer melt one possibility is to feed the solid polymer as pellets or granules to an extruder. The polymer pellets will be compressed, heated up and melted by an extrusion screw and fed to a spinning pump from where the melt is entering the spinneret |
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Term
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Definition
| o A material that softens and flows under the influence of heat |
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Term
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Definition
| compounds with the same molecular formula but different structural formulas |
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Term
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Definition
| o PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN. When the full drawing of a yarn is delayed until a later stage of yarn processing or for high strength industrial uses |
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Term
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Definition
| o Polylactic Acid. Technically a polyester, but has its own generic name |
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Term
| Who was Carothers and what did he do? |
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Definition
| o Chemist working for the DuPont Company, invented Nylon. Led to polyester |
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Term
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Definition
| o Polymer containing monomers of amides joined by peptide bonds. Wool, Silk, Nylon, Aramid |
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Term
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Definition
| o The first Polyester. by DuPont. 1953. |
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Term
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Definition
| o ACRYLIC. The second synthetic fiber to be produced commercially by DuPont |
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Term
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Definition
| o DuPont spandex. Fibers randomly fuse together to make the yarns strong |
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Term
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Definition
| o A considered name for Nylon |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| o Generic worldwide name for spandex |
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Definition
| o Generic for polymers containing fluorine. Expensive. DuPont’s Teflon (cookware) and Gore-Tex (outdoor apparel) |
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Term
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Definition
| o Made from polymers containing chlorine atoms. SARAN and VINYON (PVC) |
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Term
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Definition
| o Textile fabrics that have received no bleaching, dying, or finishing treatment after being produced by any textile process. |
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Term
| Wet processing definition |
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Definition
| o FINISHING: dyeing, printing, and finishing |
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Term
| Batch Processing Definition |
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Definition
| o A single vessel in which the textile, water, and chemicals are mixed, stirred, and heated |
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Term
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Definition
| o Holds the fabric flat using clips or pins during finishing |
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Term
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Definition
| o A distressed look in which garments have uneven colors. Ex: jeans |
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Definition
| o Produces solid colored blended textiles with a pigment (not fiber specific) dyebath. Limited to pastel colors |
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Definition
| o Used to identify fibers during the manufacturing process, washed out with a cold bath when complete |
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Term
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Definition
| o When colors are correctly placed on a fabric |
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Term
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Definition
| o Increases luster of linen. When fabric is beaten with hammers to flatten yarns. |
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Term
| Nanotechnology Definition |
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Definition
| o controlling of matter on an atomic and molecular scale |
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Term
| Identify and distinguish the three classifications of manufactured fibers |
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Definition
| a. Regenerated, inorganic, synthetic |
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Term
| List and order the four basic steps in manufacturing fibers. Differences in which two of these steps determine the differences in fiber spinning methods |
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Definition
| a. Making the polymer, melt/solvent, extrusion, take up. The liquefying stage and extrusion determine the differences in fiber spinning methods |
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Term
| What are the three main methods of manufacturing fiber? How do they differ in terms of starting material? How are the solutions developed? How are the fibers coagulated? |
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Definition
a. Melt spinning—chips of solid polymer are melted, then extruded through a spinneret and hardened with a cool air current
b. Dry spinning—polymers are dissolved in a solvent then extruded through a spinneret into a circulating current of hot gas where the solvent evaporates from the polymer and causes the filament to harden
c. Wet spinning—the polymers are liquefied in a solvent then extruded through a jet into a liquid bath that washes away the solvent and causes coagulation and hardening |
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Term
| How does the spinning method affect cross sectional shape? |
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Definition
| a. Dry spun fibers have an irregular cross shape because the fiber skin collapses. Wet spinning also has an irregular cross section. Dry-jet wet spinning has a smooth cross section |
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Term
| How does dry-jet wet spinning differ from wet spinning? |
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Definition
| a. Wet spinning involves dissolving polymers in a solvent, then extruding them through a jet into a bath that washes away the solvent and lets the fibers form. Dry Jet wet spinning involves the spinneret being placed above the bath so the fibers can be stretched to orient and crystallize themselves before being solidified in the bath |
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Term
| Identify four generic classifications of manufactured cellulosic fibers. What spinning method is used for which? |
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Definition
a. Viscose rayon- wet spun
b. Cuprammonium rayon- wet spun
c. Lyocell- dry jet wet spun
d. Acetate/triacetate- dry spun |
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Term
| What is the most common starting material for manufactured cellulosic fibers? |
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Definition
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Term
| What is the polymer in rayon and lyocell? How does the polymer in acetate and triacetate differ? What effect does that have on the fiber properties? |
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Definition
| a. The main ingredient of lyocell is cellulose, a natural polymer found in the cells of all plants. Properties: Effects of cotton, feel of silk. Tri/Acetate have chemically modified the cellulose hydroxyls become Acetyl groups. |
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Term
| Which of the manufactured cellulosic fibers are thermoplastic? |
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Definition
| a. Acetate and Triacetate. |
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Term
| Which of the four manufactured cellulosic fibers qualifies as a "green" product and why? |
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Definition
| a. Lyocell- produced in Europe. Made of wood pulp and bamboo. Closed system, chemicals are recycled. |
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Term
| What was the first synthetic fiber put into commercial production and when did that happen |
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Definition
| a. Nylon (polyamide) 1939 |
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Term
| When was polyester discovered? Produced commercially? Why the times lag? |
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Definition
| a. 1941 invented. 1951 produced. |
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Term
| What spinning methods are used for nylon, aramid, and polyester? How does that affect cross sectional shape? |
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Definition
a. Nylon is melt spun
b. Aramid-- Dry jet wet spinning
c. Polyester-- Many high speed methods |
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Term
| What is drawing and why is it important with these synthetic fibers? |
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Definition
| a. Stretching to attenuate the fibers and orient the polymers. Gives the intended finish and texture to the fiber |
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Term
| How does nylon's specific gravity compare to other fibers |
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Definition
| a. Low. Makes lightweight, strong sheers |
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Term
| What important property of aramid makes if useful in protective clothing? |
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Definition
| a. Extremely low combustibility |
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Term
| Which synthetic fiber can be recycled? |
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Definition
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Term
| What is the polymer in acrylic and what role do co polymer's play? |
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Definition
| a. Polyacrylonytrile polymers. Co polymers make the acrylic less brittle |
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Term
| What characteristic of modacrylic fiber makes it useful in pile and fleece fabrics |
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Definition
| a. Specific gravity 1.3- comparable to wool. Fibers light but have good insulating qualities. |
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Term
| Why is PAN so much stronger than acrylic? |
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Definition
| a. Very crystalline molecules can pack together better without copolymer |
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Term
| What is unique about the spinning of acrylic fiber? |
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Definition
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Term
| What are the two types of olefin fiber? |
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Definition
| a. Polypropylene and polyethylene |
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Term
| What has contributed to the growth in polypropylene fiber use? |
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Definition
| a. Higher thermal stability |
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Term
| What method is used to spin polyethylene fibers for high strength purposes? What trade name is the resulting fiber under? |
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Definition
| a. Gel spinning—Spectra ® |
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Term
| What distinguishes elastomeric fibers? How does the chemical structure contribute to its properties? |
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Definition
| a. Natural or synthetic polymer which at room temperature can stretch repeatedly to twice its length and return. |
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Term
| Why is spandex generally used in core spun yarns? |
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Definition
| a. For comfort and appearance |
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Term
| factors are unique to carbon fibers and glass fibers? |
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Definition
| a. High strength and modulus |
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Term
| Why would vinal not work in a swimsuit? |
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Definition
| a. Hot water dissolves it |
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Term
| What are two forms in which fabrics move through continuous wet processing? |
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Definition
| a. Wet on wet, or drying between processes |
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Term
| Match scouring, burling, degumming, and carbonizing with the various natural fibers for which they are appropriate. |
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Definition
a. Scouring-- for cotton flax and wool with alkaline solutions
b. Burling—removal of loose threads and knots from woolens and worsteds with a burling iron- a type of tweezer.
c. Degumming—for silks. Removal of the sericin.
d. Carbonizing—wools. To remove vegetable matter. Treated with sulfuric acid and baked. |
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Term
| Why is bleaching necessary? Singeing? |
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Definition
a. Bleaching is necessary for most natural fibers to become white in preparation for dying. Performs cleaning function.
b. Singeing burns off fibers protruding from fabric surface. |
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Term
| How do dyes and pigments differ? |
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Definition
a. Dyes cause a chemical reaction- soluble so textiles are colored throughout
b. Pigments add color to materials on the surface, it’s not absorbed. |
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Term
| When and by whom was the first synthetic dye discovered? |
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Definition
| a. William Perkin (18yo) in 1856. Made mauve. Trying to cure malaria. |
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Term
| Identify the different stages at which dyeing can take place and the color effects achieved for each. |
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Definition
a. Stock dyeing—bundles of fibers are dyed in dye bath. Wools receive heather or tweed effect
b. Top dyeing-
c. Yarn dyeing- expensive. Stripes and houndstooth.
d. Space dyeing- effect of fiber dyeing. Expensive.
e. Fabric dyeing- solid color |
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Term
| When is it economical to do continuous dying versus batch dying? |
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Definition
| a. When large quantities of the same shade are required |
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Term
| How can cross dyeing be used to achieve fiber dyed or yarn dyed looks |
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Definition
| a. Fiber specific dyes are used in one dyebath and each fiber only picks up its color. |
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Term
| be able to match the following dye types (reactive, vat direct, azoic, acid, basic, disperse) with appropriate fiber types and key performance aspects such as: |
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Definition
• Low temperature dyeing—azoic dyes
• Use in denim—vat dyes
• Most common type for cotton—reactive dyes
• Easiest to use on cellulose but not colorfast—direct dyes
• Reacts chemically with amine groups in certain fibers—acid dyes
• Converts from an insoluble form to a soluble form during the dyeing process- then back to an insoluble form—vat dyes
• Type of first synthetic dye by Perkins—basic dyes
• Only practical way to dye polyester—Disperse dyes |
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Term
| You may be asked to distinguish an overprint from a blotch print from a discharge print from a burnt-out design (swatches may be used) |
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Definition
Blotch- background color is lighter on back of fabric (white shows on back).
Discharge- background color is the same on both sides (print a dark background leaving white details).
Overprint- background color is the same after being piece dyed (print dark details on light colored fabric).
Burn-Out- done on blend fabrics and will dissolve one of the fibers leaving it to be opaque. |
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Term
| What is likely the oldest printing method? |
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Definition
| a. Freehand painting of designs on fabric or block printing by the Egyptians. |
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Term
| What printing method developed in the late 1700s made possible the mass production of printed goods? What has it been largely replaced by and why? |
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Definition
| a. Roller printing. Replaced by screen printing. |
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Term
| What is the newest technology in printing? |
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Definition
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Term
| What dye types and what fibers work with heat transfer printing? |
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Definition
| a. Disperse dyes (or sublimable)the fibers are polyester, nylon, acetate, and acrylic. |
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Term
| The three broad types of calendars used in finishing produce different results. Be able to identify those and match them with descriptions of how they work and the following fabric effects: |
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Definition
a. Routine, friction and embossing
o Chintz—routine calendar.
o Wet look chintz—friction calendar. Polished.
o Schreinerized fabric—embossing calendar. Tiny lines
o Imitation plisse –thermoplastic fabric embossed to create effect
o Moiré—embossing calendar |
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Term
| be able to match the following finishes with fiber types on which they are used and the effects produced: |
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Definition
a. fulling- wool. Makes fabric felt and become a better insulator
b. mercerization- cotton- swells cotton fibers so they lose striations and become rodlike
c. biopolishing—cotton, rayon, lyocell. Uses an enzyme to eat away loose fibers and give a polished look.
d. Parchmentizing—cotton- alkali treatment makes fabric surface gelatinous then it dries and stiffens. |
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Term
| Organdy and crinoline are both stiffened cotton fabrics. Know the differences in how that is achieved and the differences in durability. |
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Definition
| a. Crinoline is heavily starched, not a durable finish, organdy has been parchmentized. |
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Term
| When did durable press or permanent press finishes become popular? What environmental/health issue is related to this desire for wrinkle resistant fabrics? |
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Definition
| a. Popular in the 1950s. Formaldehyde was dangerous to mill workers. |
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Term
| What is the key principle in trying to achieve washable wool? |
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Definition
| a. Avoiding the felting shrinkage |
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Term
| What synthetic fiber has been successfully recycled from soda bottles into textile products? What products has it been used for and what are two trade names that are associated with these recycled fibers? What company was the leader in developing this technology? |
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Definition
| a. Polyester. Wellman Company pioneered. Fortrel® Ecospun® and Trevira II® are trade names. Used for sleeping bags, quilted jackets, carpets and pillows. |
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Term
| What post-consumer activities or issues have an impact on sustainability? What current mandate involving the Consumer Product Safety Commission is related to sustainability issues? (Not in your book. To be discussed in lecture.) |
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Definition
| a. What people do with their products after use impacts sustainability. Clothing is one of the only things that are thrown away before they’re used up. |
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