1. Fiber content

2. Yarn construction

3. Fabric construction

4. Coloring method

5. Finish

6. Decorative designs

1. Natural

- Cellulose

-Protein

-Mineral

2. Man-made

-Cellulosic 

-Noncellulosic

-Mineral

1. Cotton

2. Linen - made from flax fibers

3. Ramie - tropical plant with 4-8 ft. stalks

4. Jute - bast fiber from inner bark of Corchorus plant

5. Hemp

6. Kapok

process where cotton fibers are treated with sodium hydroxid (caustic soda) at a 20% solution for two minutes at room temperature.

Becomes smoother, more lustrous, stronger, more absorbent

Cotton - characteristics:

1. Moisture aborption

2. Effect of heat

3. Mildew

4. Effect of water

5. Effect of acids/alkalies

6. Effect of bleaches

1. 7-10% at 65% relative humidity and 70EF

2. Withstands ironing temps up to 425.  Scorch at 475.

3. Susceptible.  Sizings and starch will promote mildew growth.

4. Little effect.  10-20% stronger when wet.

5. easily damaged by strong acids.  hot sulfuric acid will turn it to gum.  OK with acetic or citric./high resistance to strong alkalies

6. tears easily when overbleached.  strong oxidizing bleaches will convert cotton to an oxycellulose condition.

Linen - Characteristics

1. Moisture aborption

2. Effect of heat

3. Mildew

4. Effect of water

5. Effect of acids/alkalies

6. Effect of bleaches

1. 10-12% at 65% RH and 70 DF

2. Ironing temps up to 300 for long periods without scorch.  temps as high as 500 for short period of time.

3. susceptible if stored damp in warm environment

4. 20% stronger when wet

5. poor resistence to strong acids/high resistence to alkalies

6. Excessive use of chlorine bleach will damage linens

Abrade easily at folded edges such as hemlines or pocket edges.

Stronger than cotton and one of the strongest natural fibers. 

Cleaning - Dry or wet depending on dyes, finishes, decorative designs, and garment designs

Chlorine bleach - may be used on WHITE cotton if not treated with chlorine retentive finishes.  Long soaking will discolor and weaken

Temps - up to 425 safe

MUST BE THOROUGHLY DRY BEFORE DRY CLEANING TO PREVENT CHAFING, COLOR LOSS, REDEPOSITION

Scorch - if ironed at very high temp (475+)

Cleaning - dry or wet depending on dyes, finishes, decorative designs, garment construction

Must be thoroughly dry before dry cleaning to prevent color loss, redeposition, chafing

Chlorine bleach - Strong/long soak in chlorine bleach will discolor and weaken

Ironing - Withstands ironing temps 450-500

Scorch if ironed too high temp

Ramie - Characteristics

1. Moisture aborption

2. Effect of heat

3. Mildew

4. Effect of water

5. Effect of acids/alkalies

6. Effect of bleaches

1. 12% or more at 65% RH and 70 DF

2. withstands 400-450

3. very resistent

4. little effect.  stronger when wet

5. acids - damaged by strong acids/alkalies - highly resistent

6. may be successfully bleached with normal precautions

BRITTLE = will break in folded or creased areas

Twine, canvas, upholstery.  Blended with cotton or linen in outerwear.

Cleaning - wet or dry depending on dyes, finishes, design, and garment construction

Chlorine bleach - may be used on white ramie

Iron - up to 400-500 DF

ACID - EASILY DAMAGED

Throughly dry before dry cleaning - to prevent redeposition, color loss, chafing.

Jute - characteristics

1. Moisture aborption

2. Effect of heat

3. Mildew

4. Effect of water

5. Effect of acids/alkalies

6. Effect of bleaches

1. high

2. damaged by heat

3. easily weakened

4. weakened by moisture

5. acids/alkalies - damaged by both

6. seldom bleached

scratchy texture, poor strength, odor - seldom used in clothes.  cordage, carpet backing, wall coverings, draperies, burlap.

Cleaning - always dry cleaned.  NEVER LAUNDER BECAUSE OF LOW TENSILE STRENGTH.

Dry clean with low moisture, short cycle, short extraction, dry in cabinet at 120 EF.

Hemp - characteristics

1. Moisture aborption

2. Effect of heat

3. Mildew

4. Effect of water

5. Effect of acids/alkalies

6. Effect of bleaches

1. 12% at 65% RH and 70 EF.  

2. withstands high temps

3. highly resistent

4. very little effect - like cotton

5. Acids - damaged by strong acids/ Alkalies - high resistance to alkalies

6. Difficult to bleach - loses strength

Rope, twine, bags, rug backing.  Seldom as fabric.

Cotton

1. Spotting

2. Cleaning/Drying

3. Finishing

1. Damaged by strong tannin (acetic ok) and strong chlorine bleach

2. dry or wet.  Dry to 7-10% at 65 RH

3. temp up to 425.  can scorch if higher 

Linen

1. Damaged by strong tannin (acetic ok) and strong chlorine bleach

2. dry or wet.  Dry to 10-12% at 65 RH

3. temp up to 450-500 briefly; 300 for long period.  Folded edges abrade

1. damaged by strong acids (acetic okay)

2. wet or dry; 12% or more at 65 RH

3. 400-450 degrees; brittle - breaks at folds and creases