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Permanent Waving
Permanent waving, chemical services
39
Cosmetology
Not Applicable
03/27/2012

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Cards

Term
Permanent Waving consists of two steps:
Definition
The hair undergoes a chemical change by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
Term
Perm wrap
Definition
A wet set on perm rods; hydrogen bonds are broken
Term
Difference between perm wrap and permanent waving?
Definition
Perm wrap breaks hydrogen bonds, permanent waving breaks the stronger more resistant disulfide bonds
Term
Double flat wrap
Definition
one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair
Term
Single flat wrap
Definition
one end paper is placed over the top of the hair being wrapped
Term
Bookend wrap
Definition
one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Term
End papers or end wraps must extend beyond the ends of hair to
Definition
keep them smooth and straight and prevent fishhooks
Term
Hair should be
Definition
evenly distributed along the width of the roller
Term
For permanent waving, hair should be divided into how many sections?
Definition
Nine
Term
How is the size of the base section determined?
Definition
By the legnth and width of the rod
Term
Base sections
Definition
Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided
Term
Base placement
Definition
The position of the rod in relation to its base section
Term
On-base placement
Definition
the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base, and the rod is positioned on its base
Term
Half off-base placement
Definition
wrapped at a 90 degree angle or perpendicular to its base section, and positioned half off its base section
Term
off-base placement
Definition
hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section
Term
What benefit is there to wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth
Definition
Causes the least amount of stress to the hair
Term
Consequences of wrapping against the natural growth pattern?
Definition
Can cause breakage at the base of the curl and produce a band mark
Term
What is the purpose of the alkaline solution in permanent waving?
Definition
to soften and swell the hair and open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate the cortex
Term
What are the two basic methods of wrapping?
Definition
Croquignole and spiral wrap
Term
What is double-rod or piggyback wrap?
Definition
A method of wrapping where hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another is used to wrap the remaining hair in the same direction.
Term
What is the croquignole method?
Definition
The hair is wrapped from ends to the scalp in concentric circles, resulting in increased diameter with each new overlapping layer
Term
What is the spiral perm wrap?
Definition
The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the legnth of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral, like the stripes on a candy cane. The diameter remains constant.
Term
What chemical reaction occurs when the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds?
Definition
Reduction reaction; the addition of hydrogen
Term
What reducing agent is used commonly used in permanent waving solutions?
Definition
Thio or thioglycolic acid
Term
What does pH stand for?
Definition
Potential Hydrogen
Term
What is the pH range?
Definition
0 to 14
Term
What level pH is considered neutral?
Definition
ph 7
Term
What level pH is considered acidic?
Definition
Anything below 7
Term
What level pH is considered alkaline?
Definition
Anything above 7
Term
What is the natural pH level of hair?
Definition
Between 4.5 and 5.5
Term
Cold waves are also known as...
Definition
Alkaline waves
Term
Cold waves have what level pH?
Definition
9.0 to 9.6
Term
What reducing agent is used in the cold wave solution?
Definition
Ammonium thioglycolate
Term
Do cold waves process at room temperature or with an outside heat source?
Definition
Room temperature
Term
Does overprocessed hair appear straight, curly at top, and/or curly at the bottom?
Definition
Either straight, or curly at the roots; because since hair is stronger at the scalp, the solution takes, but since hair is weaker at the ends it won't hold the curl
Term
Does underprocessed hair appear straight, curly at the top, and/or curly at the roots?
Definition
Either straight or curly at the ends; because hair is more weak at the ends, hair processes effectively, takes little to no effect at the stronger roots
Term
What does thio neutralization do?
Definition
It stops the actipn of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form
Term
What is the first step in thio neutralization?
Definition
Deactivation of any waving solution that remains in the hair after processing and rinsing
Term
What is the minimun amount of time you should spend rinsing perm solution from the hair?
Definition
Five minutes; always smell the hair and if you still smell solution continue to rinse
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