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RTW chapter 8
Chapter 8 Findings and Trim
79
Other
Undergraduate 4
12/06/2009

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Term
findings
Definition
consist of all components of a garment EXCEPT THE BODY FABRIC, they include trims, labels, threads, elastics, underlying fabrics, zippers, buttons, other closures, and other miscellaneous items
Term
trims
Definition
a subdivision of findings, are decorative materials that adorn the garment (such as ribbons, braids, laces, and other narrow fabric trims but also includes appliques, flowers, beads, sequins, and other decorative items
Term
garment quality
Definition
findings and trim are critical to this, consumers often discard garments upon the failure of the trim or findings
Term
garment quality continued..
Definition
the findings and trims must reflect the same quality as the fabric, it must also withstand the same conditions as the fabric
Term
fabric quality
Definition
is assessed at all stages of apparel production
Term
aesthetic performance of findings and trim
Definition
refers to the appearance of the items as they complement the appearance of the garment, both findings and trim play an important part and must be considered with design, construction, and finish of the garment because design, materials, construction, and finish interact to produce the total aesthetic effect
Term
functional performance of findings and trim
Definition
refers to the utility and durability as a component of the garment
Term
utility in the functional performance
Definition
includes the influence of the trim or finding on these garment
characteristics: 1. dimensional stability 2. appearance retention 3. comfort 4. ease of care 5. safety
Term
durability in the functional performance
Definition
refers to the serviceability of the trim or findings regarding to these characteristics of the garment 1. strength 2. abrasion resistance 3. degradation by chemicals and other elements of the environment
Term
dimensional stability
Definition
one of the most important performance characteristics of a garment (shrinkage, elongation and elasticity)
Term
shrinkage
Definition
2% variance between trim and body fabric will not adversely affect most garments
Term
differential shrinkage
Definition
when a difference in shrinkage in excess of 2% occurs, the shrinkage of garment parts in varying amounts (causes puckered, rippled look)
Term
Resistance to Degradation
Definition
findings and trims must withstand degradation from the environment, to be considered durable, a garment must consider the following: 1. chemical resistance 2. launderability /dry-cleanability 3. light resistance 4. fume fading
Term
physical features of findings and trim
Definition
determine its performance, include its base raw materials, its structure, and how it is dyed, printed, and finished (size, placement, attachment and reinforcement is also impt)
Term
labels
Definition
include brand, size, care and fiber identification
Term
printed labels - paper labels
Definition
take the least time and allow flexibility, used on casual and low price clothing
Term
pre-printed labels
Definition
buy these from the label supplier, takes longer than printing one's own labels but has a shorter lead time, offers some flexibility
Term
woven labels
Definition
more expensive than printed labels due to the cost of materials and lead times, creates an impression of high quality, soft, comfortable
Term
hangtags/billboards
Definition
paper labels are this that are part of the apparel at point of sale, these are temporary labels that are designed for marketing purposes
Term
thread
Definition
a yarn that forms the stitches that hold a garment together, may be used to create decorative effects such as topstitching and embroidery, least costly of a garment
Term
single end strength
Definition
the strength to break the thread
Term
loop strength of the thread
Definition
the force necessary to separate two stitches
Term
fiber content of thread
Definition
most threads are polyester, nylon, cotton, or rayon
Term
main types of thread used in apparel manufacturing
Definition
spun and corespun
Term
spun thread
Definition
consists of staple fibers into single years, 2-6 of these yarns are twisted together to make a thread, strong, elastic and abrasion resistant, slick, cost less than corespun thread, most common thread is spun polyester,
Term
corespun thread
Definition
each ply of corespun thread consists of spun core of pulyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers, several plies are twisted together to make one thread, have greater strength for their size, less apt to cause puckering, comfortable, best choice for critical seams
Term
monofilament
Definition
most common filament thread, clear thread made of a single filament of nylon resembling a fishing line, cost effective
Term
multifilament thread
Definition
consists of several filament yarns twisted together to make a very strong thread
Term
thread size
Definition
use the tex system to identify this
Term
ribbon
Definition
a narrow, woven fabric used as a trim and to make ties and bows
Term
different types of ribbons
Definition
1. grosgrain ribbon
2. satin ribbon
3. velvet ribbon
4. novelty ribbon
5. picot edge ribbon
6. ruching
Term
braid
Definition
are formed by intertwining a set of yarns according to a definite pattern to form a narrow fabric
Term
different types of braids
Definition
1. soutache braid
2. middy braid
3. loop braid
4. scrolling braid
5. gimp braid
6. rickrack braid
7. foldover braid
Term
lace trim
Definition
a narrow lace fabric
Term
different types of lace trims
Definition
1. insertion
2. galloon
3. edging
4. beading
5. medallion
Term
other narrow miscellaneous fabric trims
Definition
1. piping
2. corded piping
3. bias tape
4. seam tape/hem tape
5. twill tape
6. fringe
Term
appliques
Definition
decorative fabric patches applied to the garment, generally die cut from fusible backed fabric, ironed on, and then permanently attached with satin stitches
Term
nonfabric trims
Definition
include beads, sequins, rhinestones, flat metal nailheads, raised metal studs, rivets, burrs, plastic/silk flowers, feathers, jewels, pearls
Term
closures
Definition
refer to the fasteners that secure garment openings, unfasten to enlarge the garment for dressing and undressing and fasten to make the garment fit the body
Term
buttons
Definition
garment closures
Term
least costly buttons
Definition
are molded of plastic (nylon) or stamped out of a sheet of plastic (polyester)
Term
natural material buttons
Definition
only about 10% of all buttons, such as wood, metal, animal horn, leather, shell or mother of pearl, nuts, seeds, cost more than plastic buttons, high price lines offer these
Term
button size
Definition
measured in lignes, with 40 lignes = diameter of 1 inch
Term
button types
Definition
eyed or shank variety

eyed: more casual,2 or 4 holes
shank: cost more, have a stem of plastic, metal, or cloth built into the button, bulkier, require more labor to attach
Term
button loops
Definition
used in some garments instead of buttonholes to fasten buttons, made of narrow tubes of bias fabric, must have adequate size or elasticity to slip over the buttons
Term
examples of button loops
Definition
1. toggle
2. frog
3. tab with button
4. d ring
Term
toggle
Definition
decorative button and loop closure sewn to the fact of coats, jackets, and other garments esp those of heavy fabrics, consist of two loops, one has a rod shaped button attached to it, when closed, it looks like two symmetrical loops over the same button
Term
frog
Definition
highly decorative button and loop closure, made of elaborately coiled cord or braid, commonly used in combination with a chinese ball button
Term
zippers
Definition
fast, easy means of getting in and out of garments, zippers are more appropriate than buttons for flat areas within garments, parts include tape, chain, slider, pull, and top and bottom stops
Term
zipper hump
Definition
wavy zipper chain, detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper
Term
zipper hump
Definition
wavy zipper chain, detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper
Term
zipper tape
Definition
fabric portion of the zipper that is sewn to the garment
Term
zipper chain
Definition
is part of the zipper that interlocks when the zipper is closed (ratcheting refers to a zipper coming unzipped when stress is applied to the two slides)
Term
separate element zippers
Definition
made up of separate elements, the teeth of the zipper, are made by attaching the metal or plastic scoops to the zipper tape, the zipper elements are interlocked by the slider, meshes them together to create the zipper chain, zipper doesn't function if the zipper element breaks, can stand stress, suitable for heavy duty applications
Term
continuous element zippers/coil zippers
Definition
twisting a continuous strand of monofilament nylon into a spiral, attached to the zipper tape and enmeshed by the slider to create the zipper chain, don't have sharp edges, lighter, more flexible, ideal for light/medium weight fabrics, self healing (enmeshed again after splitting
Term
zipper size
Definition
millimeters
Term
3 main types of zippers
Definition
1. conventional
2. separating
3. invisible
Term
conventional zipper
Definition
most common in RWT apparel, has a visible chain, one end, or sometimes both ends, of the zipper remain attached when it is unzipped (used in necklines, waistlines, side seams, and pockets)
Term
separating zippers
Definition
two sides of the zipper separate into two unattached halves when unzipped, only these can separate, found on coats and jackets
Term
invisible zippers
Definition
constructed so the chain of the zipper is concealed beneath the tape when the zipper is closed, only portion of the zipper that is visible out the outside of the garment is the zipper tab, used when a conventional zipper interferes with the appearance of the garment, add bulk, lack flexibility, more costly
Term
miscellaneous zipper types
Definition
1. novelty zippers
2. trouser zippers
3. dress zippers
4. reversible zippers
5. two way zippers
Term
snap fasteners
Definition
two types:
1. sewn on-by hand or machine sewing
2. mechanically attached -pneumatic machines or kick presses
Term
hook and eye closures
Definition
consist of two interlocking parts, a hook and an eye, a receptacle for the hook, small and easy to conceal, stronger than snap closure, used where there is heavy strain,
Term
miscellaneous closures
Definition
d rings, buckles, eyelets and grommets, cords or ties
Term
underlying fabrics
Definition
interfacings, linings, underlining, and interlinings - lend shape and support to garments
Term
interfacing fabrics
Definition
range from extremely lightweight fabrics to heavy fabrics, interfacing should be the same weight as or lighter in weight than the fabric of the garment, should withstand the same wear and care as the garment, its supporting fabric usually hidden between garmentand its facing, lends body, shape, and reinforcement to limited areas of the garment
Term
interlining fabrics
Definition
insulative layer applied strictly for additional warmth between the lining and the fashion fabric, should be lightweight and not bulky and withstand the same care as the garment,
Term
lining fabric
Definition
a near replica of the garment, constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reserves to provide a finished inside appearance, most are woven for greater stability
Term
belts
Definition
help hold the garment in position and shape it to the body at the waist, but there also decorative
Term
shoulder pads
Definition
shaping device in tailored jackets and coats, are made of a single layer of molded foam or multiple layers of form or batting
Term
chest pieces
Definition
shaping device in tailored jackets and coats, mainly in menswear, is a pad consisting of several layers of supporting fabrics, fill out and smooth the hollow area below the shoulder near the armhole
Term
sleeve heads
Definition
used in some tailored jackets and coats, consist of two or three narrow layers of shaping fabric sewn into the upper portion of the armhole and extending out into the sleeve, purpose is to create a soft, smooth roll in the cap of the sleeve
Term
bridle
Definition
stay tape sewn at roll line of lapel to prevent gaping
Term
collar stays
Definition
thin plastic strips inserted in collars to make them stay flat and prevent the collar points from curling
Term
boning
Definition
gives support to a garment through the use of stiff plastic strips, now is used in formal, fitted dresses, and some supportive bras, girdles and women's swimwear, uncomfortable
Term
bustle
Definition
basket like device used to expand and support the fullness and draping of the material in the back of the skirt
Term
horsehair braid
Definition
used to face and stiffen hems in weddings and formal gowns with full skirts, its a stiff, narrow braid once made of horsehair but today made of sheer nylon,
Term
weights
Definition
in high quality garments to perfect drape - small, thin lead weights are encased in fabric and tacked into position, increases costs but adds to quality
Term
dress shields/underarm shields
Definition
absorb perspiration and prevent the formation of perspiration stains on the outside of the garment, positioned carefully, may be tacked in place for easy removal, extend the life of a garment by preventing perspiration damange
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