Term
Super Imposed Seam (SS)
Federal Seam |
|
Definition
fabric piled on top of each other, facing same direction and stitched |
|
|
Term
Lapped Seam ( LS)
Federal Seam |
|
Definition
Two plies of overlapping fabric laid in opposing direction and sewn.
-unbalanaced stitch tension |
|
|
Term
Flat Seam ( FS)
Federal Seam |
|
Definition
edges butted together and stitched
- 600 class cover stitch ( flat) |
|
|
Term
Bound Seam (BS)
Federal Seam |
|
Definition
narrow fabric strip wrapped around the edge and stitched. |
|
|
Term
Abutted seam
Finished seams |
|
Definition
2 plies of fabric, edge to edge without a seam allowance overlap |
|
|
Term
Enclosed Seam
Finished Seam |
|
Definition
2 fabric plies sewn and turned so that seam allowances are sandwhiched between. |
|
|
Term
Exposed seam
Finished seams |
|
Definition
small seam allowance is over edged flat to the garment and exposed on the other. |
|
|
Term
French Seam
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
narrow seam allowance contained within larger seam allowance. |
|
|
Term
Mock French Seam
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
plain seam made to resemble french seam ( less time and cuts price and heavier material) |
|
|
Term
Flat- Felled Seam
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
enclosing seam allowances by sewwing folded edges beneath 2 parallel rows of stitching. ( jeans) |
|
|
Term
Mock flat- felled
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
plain seam made to resemble flat- felled
-flat felled is expensive and takes skill ( wrong sides together) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Formed by melting proces/ thermoplastic fabrics |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Formed by overlapping fabric and glue with adhesive. |
|
|
Term
Hairline Seam
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
zipg zag or overedge stitch covering a narrow seam allowance. |
|
|
Term
Overedged Seam
Finished Seam |
|
Definition
overcast and seam itself stitched at the same time ( 515 safety stitch) |
|
|
Term
Plain Seam
Finished Seams
( most common) |
|
Definition
face to face joining of 2 plies or fabric
- weaves expensive- knits it's inexpensive |
|
|
Term
Princess seam
Finished Seams |
|
Definition
seam in which an outward curve is joined to an inward curve. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
seam joined along a bias of fabric requires careful construction to avoid distortion of fabric while stitching. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
lapped seam with raw edges- overlaying 2 plies face to face along seam line joins three plies of fabric and fabric sewn on top. |
|
|
Term
Stayed Seams
( unfinished seam) |
|
Definition
plain seam allowances pressed open, then spanned with a reinforcing strip of fabric. |
|
|
Term
Taped Seam
( unfinished Seams) |
|
Definition
| similar to stayed reinforcing strip is placed over seamline and included in the stitching that forms the seam. |
|
|
Term
Topstitched Seam
Unfinished Seams |
|
Definition
essentially a decorative stitch, may also serve to flatten seams in fabrics that do not press well. emphasizes seam and style lines.
( ex. shirts and denim) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| adds 3-Dimensional shape, draw fabric close to the body and allow the fabric to fit the body contours. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
a diagonal bust dart that originates at least 2'' below the bust point. ( dart at an angle for boxt look) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Point to the fullest part of the body curve
-appear as a plain seam on the right side of the garment
-stitch length appropriate, thread matches
-raw edges align with raw edge of garment.
-matching darts are identical in size and angle
-well pressed |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
- 2 garment pieces to be joined together are uneven in length |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
soft look, unpressed folds
- amount of fullness is too great to be handled by easing
-effect of fabric types
-soft/sheer- draped look
-crisp- billowy effect |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| more controlled look, fold of fabric takes up excess fabric by means of evenly spaced folds which are stitched down the length the fold. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-overlap, wider space between tucks so that stitching line is hidden. |
|
|
