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Carpenters usually use a tape measure, marked in 1/16-inch increments. Retractable tape measures range from 6 feet to 25 feet long. |
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When greater accuracy is needed, machinists use a rigid steel rule. These rules are often marked in 1/32- or 1/64-inch increments and are often 1 foot long. A metric steel rule would usually be marked in 1-millimeter increments. |
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Mircrometer
Micrometers are even more accurate than Vernier calipers, but they are usually designed to read only in a certain range, say up to 1 inch, or 1 inch to 2 inches. Unlike a Vernier caliper, where you slide the adjuster, you turn a screw on a micrometer.
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Carpenter's Square
Layout often calls for square (90°) lines. A car- penter’s square is used to draw these lines: When you hold one leg against the edge of a board, the second makes a square line across the board. A smaller version is called the try square.
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Sliding Bevel
You may also see a sliding bevel, which has a metal leg fastened to a wooden block. By loosening the adjustment screw, you can set the tool to mark almost any angle. Sliding bevels can be used to transfer angles from place to place.
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Level
The easiest way to tell if something is level (horizontal) or vertical (plumb) is with a level, sometimes called a spirit level. Levels use glass or plastic tubes that are curved or slightly swollen in the middle. When the bubble in the liquid (spirit) is centered, the level is horizontal or vertical.
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Hand Saw
Sharp hand saws are the most basic way to cut wood. Saws cut a kerf that is wider than the blade itself; the kerf allows the saw to move freely through the cut. Crosscut saws are designed to cut at 90° to the grain, while ripsaws cut parallel to the grain. Ripsaws have larger teeth. Backsaws have a rigid steel backing that improves accuracy; they are used in miter boxes that guide them for 45° or 90° cuts.
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Keyhole Saw
Keyhole saws are made to cut complicated profiles. An electric version is called the jigsaw. A coping saw has a thin blade held in a P-shaped handle. The saw is used to cut molding.
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Circular Saw
An electric circular saw, usually with a 7-1/4- inch-diameter blade, is much faster for cutting wood, especially for ripsawing, and for sawing plywood or other panels. These saws are dangerous; read the instruction manual carefully.
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Wood Chisel
Wood chisels, sold in widths from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inches, cut wood when they are struck with a hammer or mallet.
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Jack Plane
A hand plane removes thin strips of wood and is used to shape, smooth, or reduce the size of boards. It’s especially useful for removing saw marks from the edge of a board. The “jack” plane is a general-purpose type of hand plane.
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Hacksaw
A hacksaw has a replaceable metal blade with small teeth and is that is used for cutting iron, steel, and other, softer metals. Choose a blade with finer teeth for thinner metal, and one with larger teeth for thicker metal. The hacksaw should cut on the forward stroke.
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Tin Snips
Tin snips cut steel, copper, or aluminum sheet metal, using a shearing action. Some snips have replaceable blades; others can be sharpened. Special snips are designed to cut curves.
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Right-Angle Grinder
A right-angle grinder can polish metal before painting, or otherwise smooth or shape metal. Grind toward the edge of the wheel; do not hold it flat to the surface of the metal. The same tool will also drive a wire brush for removing rust.
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Pipe Cutter
A pipe cutter—used for copper, not steel, pipe— has a sharp cutting wheel. Gradually tighten the han- dle as you rotate the tool around the pipe.
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Taps and Dies
Taps and dies cut or restore threads in metal. A die cuts threads on a rod; a tap cuts threads in a hole drilled in a plate. Either tool can be used to restore mangled threads. Both taps and dies cut only one diameter and pitch (number of threads per inch). To select a die, you must know the outside diameter (O.D.) of the pipe.
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Drill Chuck with Chuck Key
Rotating clamp that holds the bit. The chuck may be tightened with a chuck key, as shown. Newer, self-tightening chucks do not use a key. Instead, the parts tighten when they are turned against each other.
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3/8-Inch Drill
You sometimes see 1/4-inch drills, but 3/8-inch drills are an all-around tool for the home workshop. The helix on a twist drill brings chips up out of the hole. Twist drills will start accurately in wood, but they wander across the surface in metal.
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Iron and steel are much harder to drill than wood, and thus call for a larger, more powerful drill. Often, it’s best to drill a small “pilot” hole in metal. This is because metal-cutting drill bits have a blind spot near the center where they don’t drill very well. The pilot hole makes a clear space for the blind spot on the larger drill. While drilling metal, it often helps to oil the bit for cooling; excess heat can destroy the heat treatment that makes a bit hard enough to cut metal.
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Center Punch
A center punch makes a dimple in metal to locate the bit as it starts to drill. Use a hammer to hit the center punch.
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Auger Bits
Auger bits are made only for wood, which they cut much faster than twist drills. Auger bits were originally driven by a brace and bit, but they can also be used in electric drills.
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Countersink
A countersink is a conical depression in a surface that allows a flat-head screw to sit flush (flat) to the surface. A special drill bit, also called a countersink, makes the countersink.
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Hole Saw
A hole saw makes large-diameter holes in wood and some metals. The type of hole saw shown screws onto a mandrel, allowing one mandrel to handle several size saws. Hole saws are more economical than big drills for drilling wood, but they do not work in hard metal.
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Claw Hammer
A claw (carpenter’s) hammer pounds nails with the face and pulls them with the claw. A straight claw is better for longer nails, and is also handier for doing demolition. Some hammer faces have a checkered pattern, called a waffle head, to increase the grip on the nails. The standard size of claw hammer is 16 oz. Hammers 24 oz. in size are used for large nails.
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Ball-Peen Hammer
Metal workers use a ball-peen hammer. One face is flat, like a claw hammer, the other face has a ball peen, used for shaping metal and riveting. Ball-peen hammers may weigh up to 3 lb.
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Hand Sledge
Sledgehammers are used for heavy purposes. Some people can swing the hand sledge shown here with one hand. True sledgehammers have a 32-inch handle and require two hands.
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Rubber Mallet
A rubber mallet may be used to adjust parts without damage, or to drive wooden-handled chisels. Wooden mallets are also used for striking chisels. Many modern chisels, however, have steel shanks and can safely be struck with a hammer.
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Adjustable Wrench
An adjustable (Crescent) wrench can be adjusted to hold various sizes of hexagonal or square bolts. Typical overall lengths range from 6 to 12 inches.
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Combination Wrench
A combination wrench combines two basic types of wrench: the box-end and the open-end wrench. Each end of a combination wrench fits the same size bolt. Because most bolt heads have six faces (called hexagonal bolts or hex bolts) the box end has 6 or 12 facets. With 12 facets, you can turn the wrench 1/12 of a turn, which is handy in tight quarters. That’s why they are offset 15° at the end.
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Deep Scocket
A socket wrench holds a bolt or nut from above. The deep socket, shown, allows you to grab a nut even if some threads are sticking out above it. Socket wrenches connect to the sockets with a square drive; possible drive dimensions include 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, or 3/4 inch. Larger drives are available for heavier-duty use.
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Ratchet Wrench
A ratchet wrench is one way to drive a socket. It will grab when it swings in one direction and slip in the other, for convenient tightening or loosening.
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Torque Wrench
A torque wrench fits a socket and drives bolts to a specified tightness. You can buy them marked in American or metric units.
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Allen Wrench
An Allen wrench fits screws with a hexagonal recess in the head. Allen wrenches are sold in inches and millimeters.
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Arc-Joint Pliers
Arc-joint pliers (often called Channel Locks) are used to grab various sizes of material. To adjust the jaws, open them wide and engage a different set of arcs. Arc-joint pliers are not good for grabbing bolts or nuts, as they will scar the metal.
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Locking Pliers
Locking pliers (often called Vise Grips) have a lever system that gives a very strong, locking grab. They are one of the handiest tools in the box, but they can damage bolts and nuts.
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Needle-Nose Pliers
A needle-nose (longnose) pliers gets at small parts and is especially handy for electric wiring.
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Bar Clamp
A bar clamp, among other types of clamp, can hold parts in position while you work or hold joints while the glue sets.
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Pipe Wrench
A pipe wrench has steel teeth that hold steel pipe. They are sold in lengths ranging from 12 to 48 inches. Flip the wrench over to turn the pipe in the other direction.
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Standard Screwdriver
Flat-bladed (standard) screwdrivers are a major part of any toolbox. They come in many sizes. A long shank will protect your hands when you are pressing hard.
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Phillips Screwdriver
A Phillips screwdriver drives Phillips screws— the ones with a cross-shaped head. They also are sold in various sizes.
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Round-Head Wood Screw
Wood screws are sized by length and diameter. Length is measured in inches; diameter by a numbering system (# 6, # 8, #10, and so on). Larger numbers indicate a larger diameter.
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Sheet-Metal Screw
Sheet-metal screws cut threads in sheet-metal.
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Machine Screw
These screws and bolts must be screwed into a nut with the same diameter and number of threads per inch (also called pitch). Machine screws often use lock washers to prevent the nut from loosening. The lock washer is compressed under the nut and holds the nut tight.
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Hex Bolt
A hex bolt is a machine screw. It can range in di- ameter from 1/4 inch on up, and in length from 1/2 inch on up.
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Carriage Bolt
A carriage bolt is a machine screw with a round head and a square shank. The shank fits a square slot, so the bolt does not turn while being tightened. The large head substitutes for a flat washer, distributing the bolt’s force across a wider area.
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Nails are sized by length and by pennies (“d”). A 4d nail is 1-1/2 inches long, while a 16d nail is 3-1/2 inches long. Nails are sometimes coated with zinc (galvanized) to resist rust. These days, nails are often driven with pneumatic devices called nail guns.
When selecting a nail, choose a large head to hold soft materials and a small head for an exposed location. In construction, structural nails must grab about 1-1/2 inches. A larger diameter gets a stronger grip, but is also more likely to split the wood. Finally, for strength, a ring- or spiral-shank nail is a good choice.
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● Brad: A small, thin nail with a small head, used for picture frames and other light fastening.
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● Tack: A small nail with a big head, used to attach carpet and upholstery.
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● Finishing nail: A sturdy, small-diameter nail with a small head, used to attach trim and molding.
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● Common nail: A big, large-headed nail used for rough construction.
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● Sinker: A smaller-diameter version of the com- mon nail that causes less splitting.
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● Spike: A heavy, large nail for fastening timbers.
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● Ring-shank: A nail with rings that improve grip.
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● Spiral: A nail with a spiral on the shank, used to
increase grip, for example, on flooring nails.
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