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Shorelines
boring stuff
15
Geology
Undergraduate 1
12/08/2008

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Cards

Term
wave height
Definition
vertical distance from one trough to crest
Term
wave length
Definition
horizontal distance separating crests from successive troughs
Term
wave period
Definition
time interval between passage of successive troughs
Term
Factors of wave length, height, and period
Definition
1. wind speed
2. length of time wind has blown
3. fetch, or distance wind has blown across open water
Term
spit
Definition
ridges of sand that extend into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Term
baymouth bars
Definition
completely seal off a bay from the open ocean
Term
tombolo
Definition
ridge of sand that connects an island to the main land
Term
groin
Definition
built at right angles to the beach to trap sand (to maintain or widen beaches that are losing sand)
Term
breakwaters
Definition
wall-like structures built parallel to the shore to protects boats from the force of breaking waves (allows sand to accumulate, filling the marina)
Term
abrasion
Definition
sawing and grinding action of the water (erodes shore, has rock fragments)
Term
wave-cut cliffs
Definition
originate by the cutting action of the surf against the base of the coastal land
Term
wave-cut platfrom
Definition
a flat, bench-like surface, forms when the cliff crumbles and retreats
Term
wave refraction
Definition
bending of waves
Term
sea arch
Definition
united sea caves
Term
sea stack
Definition
forms when sea arches collapse, leaving an isolated stack of rock (will eventually be eliminated by erosion.)
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