Term
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Definition
(hold a garment together) refers to both the thread interloopings or interlockings used to make a seam
*help determine functional and aesthetic performance of a garment |
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Term
| physical features of stitch |
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Definition
| (desired aesthetic and functional performance of stitches is achieved by controlling these features) 1. stitch type 2. stitch length/width 3. needle type, size and condition 4. thready type and size 5. tension/other sewing machine adjustments |
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Term
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Definition
| imparts functional and aesthetic performance. several may be used in garment and each has advantages and disadvantages |
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Definition
(rely on interlocking threads)
*feature needle thread that enters fabric from above
*difference from chain is its underthred called BOBBIN THREAD |
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Definition
(rely on interlooping)
*feature needle thread
*one or more underthreads called LOOPER THREADS which each are carried back and forth by moving arm (looper or spreader) |
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Definition
(former US Fed. Std. No. 751a: stitches, seams, and stitchings)
standards for stitch types and various tacks |
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Term
| what do three digits in sitch number identify? |
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Definition
1st number: stitch class
2nd/3rd: stitch type within class |
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Definition
(single thread chainstitches)
*usually made using only a needle thread with NO UNDERTHREAD- thread interloops itself |
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Definition
*loops of their chainlike structure give extensibility
*one thread so economical (less cost) |
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Term
| disadvatages of 100 stitch |
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Definition
*give impression of low quality
*last stitch must be secured or stitches may unravel (lack durability) |
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Definition
| (variations secure hems, sew on buttons, and make buttonholes) |
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Term
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Definition
(most common stitch type of the 100 class)
*continuous row of straight stitches on the face of the fabric and a continuous chain of interlooped stitches on backside
*used for basting (temporary stitches) |
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Term
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Definition
| (joins layers of fabric w/out needle thread fully penetrating the top layer and it should be imperceptible from outside) |
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Definition
(hand stitches but manufactureres use machine made versions)
*decorative and special purposes
*created on machines that pass single thread through one side of material and then the other
(does not include all hand) |
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Term
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Definition
| *hand stitches are desirable b/c they provide shape, control, flexibility, and softness |
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Term
| disadvantages of 200 class |
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Definition
hand stitches are less durable and less uniform than machine stitches
*hand stitches- lower production speed and increase costs |
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Term
| 202 backstitch (variation) |
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Definition
(backstitching is a secure form of stitching in which one small stitch is taken backward (on outside of garment) for every large stitch taken forward(on inside)
*variation of 202 is PICKSTITCH OR PRICKSTITCH (tiny decorative backstitches used to flatten) |
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Term
| 203 decorative chainstitch |
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Definition
| identical to the 101 except the chain appears on the face side of fabric rather than back. |
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Term
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Definition
looks like a series of uniform x's. it is flexible, extensible stitch, and decorative
*used to attach labels on highprice clothes |
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Definition
(simplest 200 class stitch)
created as needle passes up and down through the fabric, always moving forward, creating space between stitches
*used to baste |
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Definition
| decorative running stitches (205) used to accent edges of lapels, pockets, and yokes |
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Term
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Definition
invisible form of running stitch (205)
join a folded edge to another ply of fabric. stitches are hidden in fold
*used to attach linings |
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Term
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Definition
| (lockstitches composed of a needle thread interlocked with a bobbin thread) threads interlock between plies of fabric |
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Term
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Definition
*b/c stitches interlocked, they appear identical on both sides, reversible
*stitches are flat and smooth-comfort
*very tight and secure
*require less thread |
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Term
| disadvantages of 300 class |
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Definition
*not very extensible
*rupture easily
*cause more seam pucker
*require operator to stop more and replace bobbin
*slower sittches per minute |
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Term
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Definition
(most popular stitch in 300 class and most frequently used)
*Plain stitch or Straight Stitch
*same stitch by home conventional machines
*results in single, straight, continuous row of stitches on both sides of fabric
*woven garments
*flat, uniform, reversible, comfort and durability |
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Term
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Definition
(zig-zag stitch)
*needle moves from side to side to produce a symmetrical zig zag pattern
*advantage: elasticity
*buttonholes
*durable |
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Term
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Definition
(multiple stitch zigzag stitchs)
*resemble 304 zigzag and are made basically same except diagonal portion more than one stitch |
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Term
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Definition
(lockstitch blindstitches)
*like blindstitches in 100 class, they join plies of fabric with stitches that are imperceptible
*most durable type of blindstitch |
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Term
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Definition
(multithread chainstitches or double-locked chainstitches)
*multithread chainstitches formed by one or more needle threads passing through fabric and interlooping with a looper thread
*widely used |
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Term
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Definition
*b/c no bobbins: higher production speed
*more extensible than lockstitches b/c looped structure
*less likely to cause seam pucker
*less costly than 300
*quick and easy to unravel if alteration |
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Term
| disadvantages of 400 class |
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Definition
*create looser seam than lockstitches-prone to seam grin
*require more thread so bulky
*since stitches formed outside fabric layers- less comfort
*raised loops easy to rupture
*double locked structure- unraveling |
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Term
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Definition
(two thread chainstitch)
*consists of a needle thread interlooping with a looper thread
*b/c of strength and extensibility, 401 more suitable than 301 for sewing elastic, knit-fabric garmets, or seams in woven fabric
*looks like 301 on face of fabric but double loops visible on back |
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Term
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Definition
(cording stitch)
*secures creases, such as frotns of pants legs
*two rows of straight stitches appear on face side with looper thread in bakc |
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Term
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Definition
(bobbinless zigzag stitches)
*resemble plain lockstitch zigzag on face side but interloop on back
*serve same purpose as lockstitch but more elastic |
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Term
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Definition
(bottom cover stitchs or bottom covering stitches)
*feature 3 parallel rows of straight stitches visible on the face side
*the many thread interloopings on back flatten area and conceal raw edges
*used to make belt loops, attach elastics and bindings, hem shirts, flatten seam allowances |
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Term
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Definition
(overedge)
*formed over the edge of fabric encasing edge in thread interloopings
*sew a seam and finish its edges to prevent unraveling
AKA Overlock, Serge, Overseam, Overcast, and Merrow
*made on small unconventional sewing machines |
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Definition
*most extensible of all stitch classes
*neaten and prevent fabric edges from raveling
*cause little seam pucker
*narrow seam allowances conserving fabric
*compress plies to lessen bulk
*reduce labor b/c perform both steps simultaneously |
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Term
| disadvantages of 500 class |
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Definition
*prone to seam grin
*cant be pressed open to reduce bulk
*require more thread- cost and comfort |
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Term
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Definition
(most popular stitch type in 500 class)
*features needle thread and two looper threads simultaneously sews seam and neatens edge by trimming and finishing it.
*has PURLED EDGE (series of raised loops formed by interloopings at edge)
*creates tighter seam |
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Term
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Definition
(501,503,505, 521)
*b/c loose stitch formations, hinge open flat like notebook.
*prone to seam grin
*503 (square edge or box edge stitch) |
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Term
| most common stitches for overedging raw edges |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
(overedge for seaming purposes)
*combine row of overedge stitches with a row of straight lockstitches or chainstitches
*two independednt rows of stitches simultaneously neaten and finish raw edges of seam
*make more durable
*515,516,519 |
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Term
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Definition
(512) resembles safety stitch
*can tell the difference by the back where rows of stitches interloop
*strong and extensible but once ruptured unravel
*less costly than true safety stitches |
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Term
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Definition
(512) resembles safety stitch
*can tell the difference by the back where rows of stitches interloop
*strong and extensible but once ruptured unravel
*less costly than true safety stitches |
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Term
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Definition
(cover stitches/ flat seam stitches/interlock stitches/flatlock stitches)
*sew flat seams where fabric plies overlap slightly
*sometimes used to flatten seam allowances
*characterized by ornamental interloopings that appear on back side of flat seam |
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Term
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Definition
*sometimes called TOP-AND-BOTTOM-COVERING chainstitches
*many interloopings of coverstitches yield strong and extremely extensible seams
*dont rupture when stretched
*when torn, doesnt unravel easily
*not apt to pucker
*require little or no seam allowance-economical
*fast speed of production |
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Term
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Definition
| *use a lot of thread- although flat can be uncomfortable |
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Term
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Definition
| *yeilds flat, strong elastic seams for knit underwear, infantswear, swimwear, and active sportswhere |
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Term
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Definition
*602, similar to 605.
*607 most complex requiring 6 threads: four needle threads a looper thread and a cover thread |
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Term
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Definition
(important determinant of aesthetics and functions of stitches)
*measured in number of stitches per inch (standard for medium wieght is 12-14 spi)
*appropriate stitch length depends on type of fabric and weight and density
*stitches too long or short may lead to puckering |
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Term
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Definition
| 18-20 SPI, reinforce areas that have narrow seam allowances and would otherwise rupture or ravel |
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Term
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Definition
use of stitches for decorative purposes
*slightly longer stitches that are more visible and more attractive
*does not hold garment together
*can also serve as reinforcement |
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Term
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Definition
holds two or more layers of fabric in place temporarily. basting stitches are very long so they can be removed quickly
*hold fabric plies in position until permanent stitched |
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Term
| advantages of short stitches |
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Definition
1. withstand stress better
2. if fail, short stitches make a smaller rupture
3. less apt to cause seam grin b/c tighter seam
4. deposit more thread in seamline allowing extensible seam
****shortening the stitch increases the amount of production time respectively cost** |
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Term
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Definition
(refers to how loosely or tautly the threads are held by the sewing machine as it sews)
*tight: stretches thread and puckers
*loose causes loose stitch formation |
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Term
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Definition
*lockstitches are affected by unbalanced tension more than other stitch types.
*with unbalanced tensions, pucker easier
*BALANCED TENSION is crucial to the durability of lockstitches |
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Term
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Definition
perfectly balanced tension is not as important to the durability of chainstitches as for lockstitches
*more extensibility so balance is less important |
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Term
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Definition
(occur when a machine fails to sew an uninterrupted row of two or more stitches)
*stitches fail to interlock or interloop
*show up as a long float
*unnattractive and weak spot in seam |
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Term
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Definition
| *wide overedge stitches and cover stitches generally represent high quality when used to sew seams b/c wide stitches yield wide and thus strong seams |
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Term
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Definition
| sewing machine needles of the correct size, type, and condition yield high quality stitches |
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Term
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Definition
| results when needle cuts, or severs, the yarns of the fabric rather than slipping between yarns. needle damages the fabric |
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Term
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Definition
occurs when sewing friction heats the needle, which fuses or melts the finishes or fibers of the thread or fabric
*results in a loss of thread strength |
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Term
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Definition
results in jagged, enlarged needle holes in fabric
*caused when operator rips out inaccurate sewing and resews the same seam
*also caused when fabric does not move forward properly and needle enters same area |
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Term
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Definition
| accuracy of sewing operator plays important role in neatness, straightness, consistency, and uniformity of stitches. |
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Term
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Definition
restitching at the beginning and end of the row of stitches
*secures stitches and prevents unraveling-sign of high quality
*high durability, extra time |
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Term
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Definition
to secure stitches when incapable of back tacking.
(draws excess thread chain at beginning of each row of stitches into stitches to secure them) |
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