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"degree of excellence; grade or the essential character of something"
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Quality- The customer's viewpoint |
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The main ingredient in a product that delights the customer by iether meeting or exceeding expectations |
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Satisfying the customers is the ultimate goal for everyone in the textile and apparel industry by either meerting or, better yet, eceeding their expectations |
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American Society for Quality Control- the systematic approach to the search for excellence |
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International Standards Organization- the ensemble of props and characteristics of a product or a service which confer on it the capacity to satisfy expressed or implicit requirements. illustrates the concept of suitability for use |
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going beyond the call of duty, doing more than expected, doing the very best in everything, in every possible way |
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How to achieve excellence |
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Striving to maintain the highest standards and paying close attention to detail, go the extra mile |
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difficulties in excellence |
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we expect high quality for the money we spend, no matter what we purchase ---difficulties arise when we cannot ID, measure, or control the quliaty of products |
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textile product quality begins with |
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raw material, staple of filament fibers from which yarns are mafe of or which might be used directly to make |
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fibers and filaments differ in |
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diameter, dyeing chracteristics, strength, stretch, moisture absorbency, chemical sensitivity |
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yarns and fibers differ in |
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size, uniformity, appearance, fiber strength, orientation, stretch |
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Weaving, Knitting, Non-woven |
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blouses, sweaters, bed sheets, drapery, tents, carpets |
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comonly assmebled pieces can vary by |
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thread, seam type, seam allowance, stitch density |
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Selection Criteria: initial product |
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color, fabric design, drape, smoothness |
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Selection Criteria: Percieved Comfort |
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size and fit, how does it feel, warm/coolness for intended use |
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Selection Criteria: Maintenance requirements |
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machine wash, hand wach, dry clean only |
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Selection Criteria: Service Ability |
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Ability of a product to maintain its initial smoothness, shape, dimensions, color, hand, and strength |
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1. initial product
2. percieved comfort
3. maintenance requirements
4.price
5. service ability
6. safety and environment |
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quality in textile and apparel products |
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quality is developed into a product from the inception of the idea to its delivery to the ultimate consumer |
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the process of designing, producing, evaluation, and checking products to determine if they meet the desired qulity level for a company's target market |
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The process of "inspecting" the products after production. That is inspectin the goods and sorting them into acceptable and un-acceptable groupings |
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Quality- holistic perspective |
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"that which belongs to something and makes or helps to make it what it is...the degree of excellence which a thing possesses" |
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"the totality of characteristics of an entity that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs" |
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Plan, Do, Check, Act, Analzye |
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consuct consumer research |
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check to make sure the product meets criteria |
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Market the product to consumers |
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how the product is percieved in the market |
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Quality in the industries |
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ID of prodcut standards and specs, consistency between identical products, providing proucts that meet consumer needs |
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Perfomance, Features, reliablity, conformance, durability, serviceability, aesthetics, perceived quality |
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Secondary Characteristics |
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meets standards and specs |
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how long a product will be suitable |
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describes how well a product satsfies customer needs |
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individual preference and sujective evaluation |
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subjective, need to fit in with crowd, peer pressure |
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identifying product attributes |
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serviceability, aesthetics,durability, cost, comfort, care and appearance retention |
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Consumers perception of quality |
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quality depends on the dimension of a prodcut service that are important to the user |
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group of customers or a segment of the population that is likeyl to purchase a product, also called market segmentation |
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Heat Transfer- conduction |
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no exchange of materials like oil or water, occurs when two objects touch, heat flows from hot to cold, more contact leads to more conduction |
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Mechanism of heat transfer- convection |
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heat transfer that relies on gas or liquid, involves material transfer |
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Mechanisms of Heat transfer- evaporation |
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heat trasnfer occurs whena liquid changes into a gas and takes place more rapidly when temperature differences are greater (more evaporation at low humidity) |
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Mechanism of Heat Transfer- Radiation |
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transfer of heat energy by electromagnetic waves (short wavelength=sun, long wavelength or infrared= body and objects), doesnt require air, matter, or atmosphere to transfer heat, some surfaces are good reflectors and some are good abosorbers |
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Evaporation process- insensible perspiration |
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no control (ex: moisture vapor from the lungs by breathing) |
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Evaporation Process- sweating |
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controlled- activatieed by the hypothalamus when blood temp rises |
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body must struggle to dispose the excess heat to prevent illness |
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the body must improve heat preservation of production in order to avoid body damages from cold |
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we want heat lost= heat produced, body's chemical process |
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Comfort porperties that we measure |
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heat insulation, waterproof, wind proof, water vapor resistant, weight, freedom of movement, ventilation |
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men carry more weight in hands and pockets, women in purses, men have larger body dimensions making their clothig heavier (30%) |
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loose fitting garments allow free movement as well as hiding the shape of a the figure which could be dangerous in certain situations, if you need the clothing to be fitted you can do this by the drape and shaping the fabric |
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looseness of fit is closely related to ventilation, occurs ar two legs, two arms, the neck |
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comfort stretch, stretch-to-fit, power stretch |
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not necessarily for close fitted, almost all garments have some, their extensibilty is designed only to accomodate and reduce resistance to body movements, particularly around the elbows, knees, back and seat |
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garments are designed to fit closely to the body contours without exerting any figure shaping pressure; generally knitted. socks, stockings, tights, some sports skirts, vests, swimwear |
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exert control over the shape of the body by exerting compressive pressure on the surface. used to support various body parts and for medical treatment |
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measurable props of comfort |
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heat insulation, water proofness, wind proofness, water vapor resistance, weight, thickness, base of movement, pressure on body |
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Thermal transmittance of textile materials, thermal protective performance of materials for clothing by open flame |
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spray test, static absorption test, tumble jar dynamic absorption, hydrostatice pressure tests, imapct penetration test, rain test |
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air permeability of textile fabrics |
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backing fabric test, felt test, woven textile fabrics test, pile floor covering test |
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textive test, wool felt test, pile floor covering test |
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How to describe conditions of use |
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level of physical activity, ambient temp, relative humidity, wind speed, intensity of precipitation |
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national bureau of standards |
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American Association of textiles Chemist Colorist |
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Factors for evaluating of test methods |
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utility, validity, reliability, manageability, essentiality |
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relevant info about contemporary, theoretical, and practical issues |
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scientific merit, accurate, and truthfulness in measuring a specific property |
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basic minimum, without any experiemnt is non interpretable, rated by panel of experts and judges |
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Predictability (validity) |
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degree of relationship between the results of the test and the actual performance of the product in typical end use |
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ability of the test to detect differences in the magnitude of the property measured, the greater the sensitivity of a test, the greater the chances of detecting small differences |
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Precise and free of experimental error |
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apparent reliability of a test method rated by a panel of judges |
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reliability- single operator, between times |
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affected by change in aparatus, procedure, and env |
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reliability- single operator, within times |
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minimum variation inherent in a test method when used by a single operator at one time |
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reliabilty- within lab, between lab |
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one lab, two or more labs |
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low cost and simple, results easily manageable |
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apparent manageability of a test method as rated by a panel of judges |
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manageability- dependability |
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resistance of the testing apparatus to malfunction, frequency of and difficulty to repair instrument |
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manageability- cost for assembly, operation, and maintenance |
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value of resources, materials, sapce, personnel, and time |
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ease of operation, personnel training and maintenance |
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groups that use the evalution of the test methods |
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developers (scientist, engineers), users (quality control personnel, product developers, testing orgs), policy makers (government agents, trade associations) |
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only a part of the width of the specimen is gripped in teh clamps and pulled |
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the full width of the specimen is gripped in the clamps |
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needs less time, more like actual use |
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disadvantages of grab test |
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takes more fabric, not an exact reflection of the strength of yars, gripped between clamps, no direct relationship between grad and strip |
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specimen width is secured by cutting the fabric |
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a strip test which the specimen width is secured by raveling away yarms, useful for comparison of the effective strength of yars in the fabric with their strength before weaving, use a one inch strip for fabrics with more than 20 yarns, use a two inch strip for fabric with less than 20 yarns/inch |
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slippage in jaws (jaws not tightened, fabric slips out) or jaw breaks (only discard if fabric breaks close to jaw and is below 50% avg) |
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assess damage and quality |
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factors causing loss of strength |
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excessive bleaching, abrasion, sunlight, chemicals |
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type of fiber, type of yarn, number of fibers in X-section, eveness of yarn, twist/inch of yarn, fabric structure, length of specimen, rate of loading, previous history, form of specimen, number of samples needed |
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bursting strength diaphram method |
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(mullen) diaphram of rubber under specimen is at a constant rate, fabric is stressed in many directions, |
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bursting strength CRT method |
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CRT machine with ball burst attachment, ball test, used for more rigid fabrics such as warp knit, double kits and interlock, and fabrics that exhibit a high degree of elongation, can be used for wovens |
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rubber deteriorates, gage turned off, no rupture, gives diff results than ball test |
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the force required to continue to propagate a tear started previously in the fabric |
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tearing strength- falling pendulum |
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used on woven fabrics, measures the work done in tearing through a fixed distance, pendelum is graduated to measure tearing force in grams (%weight of scale |
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falling pendelum advantages |
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simple, fast, samll sample, die cutting gives accurate cut lengths, length of cut is 43+/- .15 mm, tear must occur between 20-60% of scale value |
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Tearing strenth- tongue test |
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the forece required to shift and break one or more yarns at the same time, take avg of 5 highest peaks |
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defined as the wearing away of any part of the fabric by rubbing against another surface, its very difficult to correlate conditions of the abrasion of a textile in wear or sue with test methods |
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what affects abrasion resistance |
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mechanical props of fibers, type of fiber and yarn, fabric structure, type and amount of finish, conditions of test like nature of abradent, tension of specimen , presure betweeen the specimen and abradent, dimensional changes in specimen |
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