Term
| What is the difference between a generic and a trade name? |
|
Definition
Generic: Similar to chemical composition (spandex)
Trade name: Company name given to it
(wants customers to know their name and want their specific product
(Lycra) |
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Term
| What impact has manufactured fibers had on the textile market? |
|
Definition
-In the 1920's manufactured fibers consumption in the U.S. was 5%
-Today Manufactured fiber consumption is 83%
-Worldwide it's 64%
Examples:
Apparel lace 100%
Pile Fabrics 100%
Tires 99%
Transporation fabrics 96%
Filtration 96% |
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Term
| What is a manufactured fiber? |
|
Definition
-Any fiber made from chemical compounds produced by manufacturers. The original form is not recognizable as a fiber
-manufactured fibers are distinguished by their chemical composition which is the basis for their "generic" names
-"trade" names vs. "generic" names
===ex. All different kinds of polyesters identified by trade names |
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Term
|
Definition
-Prepare viscous or syrupy dope
-Extrude dope through spinneret to form fiber
-Solidify fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling
-(refer to page 115) |
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Term
|
Definition
| Substance used to form solution |
|
|
Term
| Spinning solution or dope |
|
Definition
| Material from which fiber is formed |
|
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Term
|
Definition
| Forcing the dope through tiny holes in spinneret |
|
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Term
|
Definition
| Small platinum or stainless steel nozzle through which the dope is forced |
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Term
| Manufactured Fiber Spinning Methods |
|
Definition
Wet Spinning
Dry Spinning
Melt Spinning |
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Term
|
Definition
(Acrylic, lyocell, rayon, spandex)
-polymer dissolved by chemicals, spun into bath and coagulated
OLDEST PROCESS |
|
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Term
|
Definition
(Acetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex)
-Polymer dissolved by solvent, spun into warm air and solvent evaporates
MAJOR METHOD |
|
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Term
|
Definition
(Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran)
-Polymer is melted, spun into air and cooled |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Fiber is its simplest form (known as 1st generation fibers |
|
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Term
|
Definition
-Changes of parent fiber relative to properties or chemical composition; engineered specifically for end use; usually sold under a trade name (known as x generation fibers... some are 10th or beyond)
-Most researched and modified is polyester |
|
|
Term
| Common Fiber Modifications |
|
Definition
Spinneret modifications
Additives to spinning solution
Molecular Structure and Crystallinity modifications
Modifications in fiber spinning
Complex Modifications |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Fiber size: usually controlled by size of opening in spnneret; based on end use
-Apparel: less than 7 denier
-Interior textiles: 5-25 denier
-Technical applications: any size (less than 1-several thousand)
-Microfibers: fibers less than 1.0 denier
-Ultrafine fibers: fibers less than 0.3 denier per filament (dpf)
-Nano Fibers: smaller than microfibers; less than 1000 nano fibers
-Fiber shape |
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Term
|
Definition
-Changing the cross- sectional shape of the spinneret holes is the easiest way to alter fibers
--Trilobal shape- often used in nylon and polyester (silk-like hand, better wicking, soil- hiding ability)
--Thick and thin fiber types- vary in their diameter along the fibers length (adds texture)
--HOllow or multicellular fibers- provide insulation in cold weather or buoyancy in water |
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Term
| Additives to spinning solution: |
|
Definition
Delustering (appear as dark spots or dots under the microscope)
solution dyeing or mass pigmentation
Whiteners and brighteners
antistatic
antibacterial
sunlight resistance
flame resistant |
|
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Term
| Molecular Structure and Crystallinity modifications |
|
Definition
-Low Pilling Fibers
-High-tenacity fibers
-Binder staple
-Low-elongation |
|
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Term
|
Definition
| binding together with other fabrics; heat related |
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Term
| Modifications in Fiber Spinning |
|
Definition
-Crimping of fibers for end uses where cover and loft is important
(Blankets, carpets, batting for quilted items; also for stretch and recovery in hosiery and sportswear) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
one fiber incorporates two polymers which are chemically different, physically different or both
==if compenents fall into two different generic classes, the term bicompenent-bigeneric may be used
==An example would be "performance fibers" used in active sportwear... several materials may be combined to produce a product that can wick perspiration away and provide warmth |
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Term
| What is a "regenerated Fiber?" |
|
Definition
-Fiber is produced from natural polymers that are not in fibers form. Therefore, processing is done to convert them.
-Rayon, acetate, and lyocell are examples of manufactured cellulosic fibers that have been regenerated from wood pulp (mostly) or cotton linter. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-1st manufactured fiber
-Initially called "artificial silk"
-Commerical production in U.S. began in 1911 (early 1900's)
-Produced as filament only until 1930's
(very bright and lustrous fiber)
-***1955 break through-- high- wet- modulus (HWM) Rayon production began, also called HP (high Performance) Rayon.
---Improved Rayon |
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Term
| Regular Rayon vs. HWM Rayon |
|
Definition
-The main difference is that HWM is stronger and can be machine washed and dried
-Regular viscose rayon gets weaker when wet and experiences progressive shrinkage so products perform better when dry cleaned |
|
|
Term
| Production and Physical Structure |
|
Definition
-Produced by Wet Spinning
-Fibers are naturally bright but can be delustered
-Physical Structure |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Lengthwise lines called striations
--Cross section is serrated or indented circular shape which is an advantage in dye absorption due to increased surface area |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| the cross section is more round |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Aesthetics
Durability
Comfort
Appearance Retention
Care |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Luster, fiber length and diameter can be controlled so rayon can be made into cotton-like, linen-like, wool-like, or silk- like fabrics |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Regular rayon... poor, weak fiber (loses 50% strength when wet)
-HWM... moderate, stronger than regular rayon |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Both are comfortable, smooth, soft fabrics... also absorbent so no static |
|
|
Term
| Appearance Retention: Rayon |
|
Definition
-Resilency is low
-HWM retains appearance better than viscose |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
HWM- washable
Viscose- dry clean |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Woven fabrics used in apparel and home furnishings (draperies and upholstery)
-Non-woven fabrics where absorbency is important
===industrial wipes, medical supplies (bandages, diapers, sanitary napkins and tampons)
-Dialysis machine filters |
|
|
Term
| Environmental Concerns: Rayon |
|
Definition
-Regeneration requires a lot of processing and the chemical contribute to air and water pollution
-loss of trees for wood pulp
-Rayon is biodegradable
-It is not generally recycled |
|
|
Term
| Lyocell (regenerated cellulosic) |
|
Definition
-1st new generic fiber in a long time (FTC granted new classification in 1996)
-Development came about due to concern about rayon's negative effect on environment
-Initially marketed as a type of rayon in early 1990's
-MOre like cotton than any other manufactured fiber
-Designers love the way the fabric drapes |
|
|
Term
| Production and Physical Structure |
|
Definition
-Produced by wet spinning
-Cross section is more rounded and longitudinal structure and chemical composition as natural cellulose (that's why it's so close with cotton) |
|
|
Term
| Serviceability Concepts of Lyocell |
|
Definition
Aesthetics: Luster, length, and diameter can be varied depending on end use
-Durability-GOod, strongest of the cellulosic fibers, more like cotton than rayon
-Comfort- Excellent, absorbency and soft hand are great for skin contact with apparel and home furnishings
-Appearance Retention- Moderate resiliency, good dimensional stability, may pil or get fuzzy over time with harsh abrasion
-Care- Dry clean or machine wash gentile, mildew issues with lyocell |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Apparel: professional business wear, leotards, hosiery, causal wear
-Home furnishings: upholstery and window treatment fabrics
-Used in blends with cotton, wool, and manufactured fibers
-Industiral end uses:Conveyer belts, filters, medical dressings, etc. |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Considered to be an "environmentally friendly fiber"
-Wood is harvested from tree farms grown specifically for this end use instead of depleting already already existing forests
-Chemicals used in solvent bath are less harmful to environment than those used for rayon production
-Solvent is recycled efficiently |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-2nd manufactured fiber produced in U.S.- 1924
-Chemically changed cellulose (instead of physically changed cellulose)
-Promoted as a low cost "beauty fiber" known for good draping characteristics
-Low cost/ inexpensive beauty fiber
-1st thermoplastic or heat-sensitive fiber (irons can melt the fiber)
-Fume Fading problem resolved by solution dyeing (changes colors due to environmental or atmospheric pollutants or deodorant)
-Produced by dry spinning |
|
|
Term
| Serviceability Concepts of acetate |
|
Definition
-Aesthetics: luster, body, and drape are evident in the beautiful fabrics such as satins, brocades, and taffetas that are made out of acetate
-Durability: poor (acetate is a weak fiber)
-COmfort: Moderate (smooth, slick fabric used for linings of coats and jackets)
--Some static buildup due to low moisure regain
-appearance retention: poor, fabrics made from acetate have low resiliency (wrinkles easily)
-Care: Dry clean; if you wash it, you'll never get the wrinkles out.
-Environmental concerns: similar concerns as rayon processing; acetate does not degrade naturally and is not recylcled |
|
|
Term
| What are the 2 types of bamboo on the market? |
|
Definition
Bamboo rayon
Azlon: regenerated protein |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Silk latte- protein and milk
Soy silk- soybean waste |
|
|
Term
| Properties Common to synthetics and importance to consumers |
|
Definition
-Heat Sensitive- (care; +if you iron a hole in your top; - heat set pleats or creases)
-Resistant to most chemicals +
-Resistant to moths, fungi and rot +
-Low moisture absorbency -+
-Oleophilic- (difficult to remove oil and grease stains so you have to use dry cleaning agents; attract oil)
-Electrostatic- (static cling; shocks)
-Abrasion resistance good to excellent (acrylics lowest) +
-Strength good to excellent + (ropes)
-Resilience excellent + (good for carpeting)
-Sunlight resistance is good to excellent + (outdoor furniture; indoor/ outdoor carpet; curtins/draperies; nylon modified to improve resistance)
-Flame resistance ranges from poor to excellent
-Density or specific gravity (most synthetics are lightweight+)
-Pilling- (does occur in some synthetics; typically in those that are made of staple fibers (not filament fibers) |
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|
Term
| How do most synthetic fibers look microsopically? |
|
Definition
-Cross sectional Shape: rounded (unless modified)
-Longitudinal Shape: glass rods |
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|
Term
| How can you determine which fiber you have? |
|
Definition
-Solubility testing and burn testing
-Fiber glazing (surface melting and flattening of yarns or fibers when iron is too hot) |
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|
Term
| How do heat sensitivity, low moisture absorbency, and affinity for oily soil relate to care of synthetic fibers? |
|
Definition
-Use shout, Oxy-clean, Tide To-Go
-Oily stain will migrate into the solution and out of garment |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-1st synthetic fiber developed in U.S.
-1939-fiber called nylon 6,6
-Successfully introduced in women's hosiery (pulled off market for war)
-Called the "miracle fiber" due to properties unlike other fibers (stronger and more resistant to abrasion; excellent elasticity; could be heat set; light weight) |
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Term
| What are disadvantages of nylon? |
|
Definition
-static buildup
-poor hand
-poor skin contact comfort
-low resistance to sunlight (as problems appeared, the fibers were modified) |
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|
Term
| What spinning process is used in production of nylon? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| How does nylon compare to all other fibers in strength? |
|
Definition
| superior in regards to strength |
|
|
Term
| How does nylon compare to the natural and manufactured cellulosic fibers in absorbency? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Why is nylon called a "color scavenger"? |
|
Definition
it picks up color in the wash water
(Washing white lingerie with red cotton t-shirt will probably turn pink) |
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|
Term
| How does nylon compare to other synthetic fibers in absorbency? |
|
Definition
-higher than most
-supplex-wind resistant
-anso
-ultra touch
-silky touch |
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|
Term
| What are some end uses for nylon? |
|
Definition
-Good: hoisery, carpeting, apparel
-Poor: blanket, curtain |
|
|
Term
| No other fiber can compete with ______ in hosiery |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Major end use of nylon is _______. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Nylon's 2nd most important end use is for ___________. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Serviceability Concepts of nylon |
|
Definition
-Aesthetics: variable due to a multitude of end uses from upholstery and carpets to apparel and sheer hosiery to industrial uses
-Durability: excellent abrasion resistance, tenacity, and elongation
-Comfort: Poor absorbency, moderate thermal retention
-appearance retention: reliliency, elastic recovery and dimensional stability are all excellent
-Care: machine-wash (apparel) (dry extraction method (furnishings)) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-Made by melt spinning
-Often called the "Big Mixer" |
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|
Term
| Why is polyester called the "big mixer"? |
|
Definition
-Can be blended with so many different fibers
-Contributes it's good properties to the blend without destroying the good properties of the other fiber |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| tenacity, abrasion, resistance, easy care characteristics |
|
|
Term
| What is the most common blend with polyester |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Why is polyester also called the "Workhorse fiber of the Industry" |
|
Definition
-most widely used manufactured fiber in the U.S.
-Considered to the most versatile |
|
|
Term
| Problems with polyester with consumers |
|
Definition
-Doesn't breath/gets really hot
-uncomfortable in hot/humid weather
-pillin can be a problem
-Bacterial odor/perspiration
-Oleophilic (attracts the oily stains)
-Static Build-up because of low absorbency |
|
|
Term
| What are some good end uses for polyester? |
|
Definition
-blankets
-suits
-apparel
-high tech polyester is used for work out clothing
-fiber fill
-tire cord |
|
|
Term
| Poor end uses for Polyester |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Appropriate care method for polyester |
|
Definition
Machine wash
pretreat stain before washing them
(Shout, Oxy-clean, spray and wash |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Depends on whether it's in filament or staple form |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
poor (Skin contact)
Low Absorbency
Thermal retention is moderate |
|
|
Term
| Appearance retention for polyester |
|
Definition
high
resilient fiber
excellent dimensional stability |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Machine Washable-apaprel
Dry Extraction method- interiors |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
sweet smell
Will melt spin |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Can be natural or synthetic polymers that can be stretched repeatedyly to at least twice its original length. After removal of tinsile load, will immediately and foreably return to its original length of fiber and fabric |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| has the ability to exhibit high retractive forces that mold, support or shape the body |
|
|
Term
| Comfort Stretch- elastomers |
|
Definition
| More common usage of spandex, ability of a fiber or fabric to eongate slightly as the body moves and to recover a portion of that elongation when the stretching force is removed |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| oldest and least expensive of the elastomers, has poor resistance to aging, sunlight, oil, perspiration, and more (swim suits, socks) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
1st manufactured elastomer; trade name "lycra" introduced in the late 1950's
seldom used alone in fabrics; core fabric/fiber then something else around it
Deniers range from 20-4300
REsistant to aging when compared to rubber
"Elastane"- another term for spandex used around the world |
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|
Term
| What are the protective fibers with chemical, heat or fire resistance? |
|
Definition
| aramid, glass, metal and metallic fibers, PBI, sulfar, saran, vinyon, fluoropolymer (PTFE) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
exceptional strength, heat and flame resistance. Trade names Kavlar or nomex
Kevlar- lightweight- 5x stronger than steel; used for body armor undervests; bullet and knife resistant
Nomex- resistance to heat and combustion, firefighters; racecar drivers suits, flame retardant textiles on airplanes |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| incombustabile textile; doesn't burn, used in insulation in buildings draperies in public buildings, mattress covers in hotels and residence halls, not often used in apparel |
|
|
Term
| Metal and Metallic fibers |
|
Definition
in past, gold and silver was used in fabrics. Now, we have synthetic/ metallic fibers; use aluminum in different colors (film on both sides)
Trade name "lurix"
Stainless steel fibers sued in carpets to reduce statics/ sparks |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| deosn't burn, but chars; used for interior textiles for airplanes, hospitals, and submarines |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| gold in color; used in firefighter suits and protective apparel |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
widely used in films and plastics, a good weathering properties
trade name: "saran wrap" |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Sensitive to heat, used for wigs, flame retardant christmas trees, fushing lines and nets: when used in film form it is named as vinyl--used in rainwear- umbrellas |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
PTFE is most common- Teflon coating for cookware and a fiber with the tradename Teflon
Gore-Tex is also a trade name for PTFE (wind and water resistant)
TEflon can withstand temperatures up to 500 degrees F w/o any damages; used in hazardous material protective apparel |
|
|
Term
| What are some examples of power stretch materials |
|
Definition
Spanx
Foundation garments
shapewear
pants
suspenders
belts
garders
surgical support
parts of sports bras |
|
|
Term
| Examples of comfort stretch fibers |
|
Definition
Sheets
apparel
slip covers for couches |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
fibers that have unique characteristics
as a group- no negative environmental impact; produced in similar quantities; niche |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Consumer problem with spandex
--When you can see little white pieces of the spandex through the material
---Problem CANNOT be remedied |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
-The lightest weight fabric in water
-Density is less than water
-Melt spun
-Fibers have low density
-Has excellent wicking characteristics
-practically nonabsorbent as a fiber
-relatively inexpensive |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Very low melting point which limits it's use in apparel
Very heat sensitive
Can't dry on hot
Because it's unabsorbent, it has to be solution dyed
Dye is added to the dope/ Difficulty dying
waxy hand |
|
|
Term
| What are end uses of Olefin? |
|
Definition
Apparel
Upholstery
Technical Applications
Carpets (indoor/outdoor)
Back of carpeting
Thinsulate (trade name) |
|
|
Term
| What are some poor end uses to Olefin? |
|
Definition
Iron board covers- will melt
Towel- Doesn't absorb moisture |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Sometimes it has a waxy hand |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Lots of defferent strengths but considered to be very strong |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Moderate Comfort
Poor absorbency
GOod wicking characteristics
Good thermal Retention |
|
|
Term
| Appearance retention of Olefin |
|
Definition
Excellent resiliencey
(recovers from wrinkling well) |
|
|
Term
| Recommended care of olefin |
|
Definition
because it's hydrophobic, it's not affected by waterborne stains and drys very quickly
Can be machine washed
Dry at a low temperature or air dry |
|
|
Term
| What spinning process is used to make Acrylic? |
|
Definition
Dry OR Wet Spinning
With Dry: gives a dog bone shape which gives softness and luster for apparel end uses (dry and Dog)
With Wet: Round or lima bean shape; used for bulky sweaters and blankets, anything where you would want bulk/pile, fleece, faux fur items |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Promoted as a "warmth without weight" fiber (easier to care for than wool, particularly in sweaters)
-In US most is produced in staple form
-Wool-like end uses (competes with the wool market) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Sweaters
apparel
blankets (easy to wash)
Craft yarns
Fleece fabrics (sweatshirts)
Awnings
home furnishings |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
(Latent Shrinkage)
Towels-poor absorbency
Cloth diapers |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Wool-like
Able to imitate wool better than any other fiber on the market |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Moderate
not as strong as nylon, polyester and olefin, but satisfactory |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
moderate
low absorbency but wicks moisture away
thermal retention is good |
|
|
Term
| Appearance retention of acrylic |
|
Definition
moderate
resists wrinkling
pilling can be a problem
can shrink if exposed to high temperatures |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
follow directions/ look at tags
can be dry cleaned by can be machine washed sometimes too
different properties with different acrylics
excellent sunlight resistance good for awnings, (SunBrella), Pillows |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Used to be in with the regular textile fibers but now it's by itself
Used often for faux furs
Dry Spun
Inherently flame retardant
(difficult to ignite, won't drip, will self extinguish) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
Fur-like fabrics (all different quality levels, realistic looking furs)
children's sleep wear- flame retardant
Flame retardant apparel or draperies
Wigs |
|
|
Term
| Poor end uses of Modacrylic |
|
Definition
|
|
