Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
moving energy
wind driven
boundaries between/within fluids of different densities |
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Term
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Definition
waves from:
coastal landslides
calving icebergs (when a chunk of icebergs fall off into the ocean |
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Term
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Definition
waves from:
tsunami
sea floor movement |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
waves from:
gravitational attraction among moon, sun, and earth |
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Term
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Definition
| when the water doesn't move |
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Term
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Definition
| when the water is disturbed |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
H
distance between crest and trough |
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Term
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Definition
L
distance between crest and crest, or trough and trough |
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Term
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Definition
T
time it takes for full wavelength to pass a fixed position |
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Term
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Definition
F
number of waves passing a fixed location per unit of time
F = 1/T |
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Term
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Definition
No,
Its only the wave form (energy is moving)
ex. wheat field |
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Term
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Definition
back and forth (longitudinal)
up and down (transverse)
around and around (orbital) |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| distance that wind can blow over without being interrupted |
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Term
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Definition
push and pull waves
particles: move back and forth
energy transmitted through solid, liquid, gas |
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Term
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Definition
particles: move up and down (90 degree angles)
energy transmitted by vibration |
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Term
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Definition
particles: move in around and around
combination of longitudinal and transverse
energy transmitted along interface between two fluids of different density |
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Term
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Definition
| equal to one half of the wavelength (at still water level) or L/2 |
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Term
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Definition
the rate at which the wave travels
S= wavelength (L)/wave period (T)
more correctly known as celerity (nothing is in motion so there is no real speed) |
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Term
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Definition
occur in water deeper than their wave base
move at speeds controlled by wavelength
water depth: > or = 1/2 L
ex: all wind generated waters |
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Term
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Definition
exist in water shallower than 1/20 of their wavelength, move at speeds controlled by water depth
long wave
water depth: < or = 1/20 L
deeper the water, the faster shallow water waves move
ex: tsunamis, tides, wind-generated waves that move into shallow near shore areas |
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Term
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Definition
are in between shallow and deep waves
have characteristics of both
1/20 L < or = t = of < 1/2 L |
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Term
| constructive interference |
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Definition
| wave + wave leads to a dramatic increase in wave height |
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Term
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Definition
crest and trough (opposites) --> cancel energy
flat sea |
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Term
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Definition
slow wave + fast wave --> unpredictable patterns
hard to sail in |
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Term
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Definition
quantify the severity of wind driven surface waves
scale 0-11 |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
| categories of rogue waves |
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Definition
walls of water
three sisters
single giant storm wave |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
wave energy:
max:
wave height, wave length, and duration
duration of winds at equilibrium conditions |
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Term
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Definition
uniform symmetrical waves that travel outward from storm area
long crests
transport energy long distances |
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Term
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Definition
RMS Q Eliz II: 1995, 29 meters, like white cliffs of dover
US Naval Research Lab: 2004, 27.7 m high and 200 m long, Hurricane Ivan |
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